Best quad anchor climbing reddit. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here.

Best quad anchor climbing reddit. The purpose is to set up a top rope for the other climbers after a lead. The rest of the cordelette I can build my anchor system and have 3 carabiners for it. 5kn 7mm is between 13. If failure of that biner does not lead to a full system failure, a non-locker is fine. What would equalization accomplish in low load situations like top roping? A quad will be safe, but you should take the time to make sure each independent leg of your anchor can hold a truck. Blue sling runs from upper bolt to lower and back up, tied off with a clove to limit extension, and I clipped the tail to the lower just to back up the clove. I have a 6mm cordalette that I leave tied as a quad anchor. Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “ Climbing Anchors ”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. Which quad top rope anchor is safer and why? 2 and 2 (left) or 3 and 1 (right) Sort by: Open comment sort options Add a Comment Thoughts on a quad anchor? I've done a lot of googling but most threads on quad anchors focus on when not to use them. Seems that the equalization is far superior and with some practice it can be tied almost as quickly. In leading, that is definitely a big anchor, but I personally don’t really ever use a quad when leading/on multi pitch. Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. The Look up a quad anchor. 3 - Racking for climbing I have all my smaller cams on my right first gear loop (gates out because anything else is heresy) usually up to a c4 number 1, with nuts and c4 size 2+ on my left first gear loop, and anchor/belay gear on the back two gear loops. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. Waste of mental energy, just use whatever is left on your harness. 5. I use big bd lockers to grab the bolts and edelrid lockers with steel wear surface for the rope since it ends up getting tr'd on. Easier to extend for far pieces without having to use your runners. I Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. There will be situations where a Cordelette should be used, hands down, as well as others where a Sliding X is perfectly acceptable (IMO), and possibly preferred. Multi pitch sport climbing shouldn't be too difficult a leap to a guy leading 11s. I use a quad every trip because we are all moderate climbers on single pitch sport routes with two anchor bolts. The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the second climber is coming up from, as long as the route doesn’t wander. There's a reason guides almost always use quads with bolted anchors: they're incredibly bomber at good bolted anchors and will handle the failure of one of the bolts reasonably well. Equalized webbing anchors is always best, however if you have an established anchor point, on pretty much a flat wall, I don't see too much of a problem with it my only concern is that the biners don't lock. /5. Climbing allows you to decide the level of risk you're willing to take in Yeah this isn’t really any safer than a plain sliding x because the knots aren’t limiting extension, and is actually weaker because of the knots in the material. 16 votes, 23 comments. If 10 feet extension from each bolt isn't A couple of my thoughts. One critical aspect of climbing safety is the ability to construct reliable and secure rock climbing anchors. In which case, you’d need to use the “old school” method of untying and retying. It's a loop of 8 mill cord folded in half twice with two overhand knots each tied ~4inches from the center. I only set quickdraws on the anchor if I'm going to lower and someone else is going to lead. Quad anchor material Hi I would like to build a quad anchor for some sport multi pitch. I lead and put up the quad super fast and easy and then everybody else will take a pass on top rope before my wife goes up and cleans it. I was taught how to do an anchor on a single sling with four carabiners. Edit: by “same situation”, I was thinking more of the quad being the same. I was shown to make a self-equalizing anchor (with the x) using a sling and 4 locking carabiners, and have done that since. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. That way, if I’m hitting the crag and burning top rope laps or climbing with someone that does lead, I can simply put it on my rack and clip it to the anchor bolts. 6mm appears to be rated around 6-7. Anyone with some reasonable climbing experience is immediately aware of how overkill the quad-anchor fervor is - especially for top-rope applications. Unjerk: Just preference & whatever scenario is best for your gear and location. This is the best way to clean sport anchors since you never come off belay. Reply reply classygafasi • r/ClimbingAnchors: A collection and discussion plattform for all things concerning climbing anchors. But if someone falls near the anchor with less rope to soak up the shock, and the anchor is less than bombproof, that 7mm elasticity could theoretically matter. On bolted anchors I use a BD Dyneema 240cm knotted as a quad anchor. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. Thoughts on 6mm cordalette use exclusively as a multipitch trad anchor? The master point in the anchor pictured isn’t redundant, which is probably why the quad or pre equalized is preferred. I hear many (most?) of the climbs at potrero are. i’m relatively new to outdoor climbing & am wanting to build a quad anchor of my own pretty much just to set up top rope with, and a quad anchor because it’s what i’ve used so far climbing with others so i just understand how to make it the most. Wanted redundancy, limited extension, and the master point below the ledge. I don't recall the I do set up anchors for groups fairly often - hence the locking draws. I keep seeing the quad recommended for two bolt sport anchors, what makes it preferable to using two draws (with lockers, if you want to go all the way)? 524 votes, 62 comments. Oct 15, 2021 · The quad anchor is a rock climbing system that evenly distributes weight between multiple anchors, allowing climbers to easily move from pitch to pitch. I'm reading through mountainproject forums, and every time the Metolius PAS is mentioned, two comments never fail to be made: "Yer gonna die!" and "just tie/clove hitch into the anchor with the rope. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally Wrong sub but yeah I have a dedicated 7mm quad. Would be fine for two bomber bolts (nothing else) but save yourself untying the knots after they’re weighted and just use the sliding x, or better yet two draws. TR Sling Anchors. It's also not the only way to anchor to two bolts and you should know more than one system before leaving the ground. A nearby party was using a quad anchor and apparently, when Honnold saw the anchor, he pointed at it and said "that's a fucking circus. Anchor building is vital stuff if you want to stay safe and enjoy your multi-pitch climbing. Now I usually build anchors from the rope and two non-lockers or quickdraws. What else should I I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Nov 24, 2020 · The quick draw anchor is the least secure of all the anchors. Oct 1, 2023 · Rock climbing can be an exhilarating and rewarding sport, but safety is paramount. Been using a 7mm cordalette for 10+ years. The point of this, and OP's post is fine and safe in their usage, assuming good placements in good quality rock, is that not all situations require the anchor to hold a worse case factor two fall. Taking it slow, learning a lot. The home of Climbing on reddit. There are many important considerations when building an anchor, but the Aug 16, 2021 · The way you build your anchor can also impact how comfortable you’ll be while using it to belay your partner up to you and whilst belaying them up the next pitch. It provides easy clipping at the top and I usually choose this for when all climbers will be leading the climb. Hey all, I have been climbing for some time and am looking to add some more equipment to my slowly growing arsenal but haven't been able to find what I'm looking for online. Read on to learn our key tips for the best multi-pitch anchor systems. Yes, it’s clear that the photo shows 3 strands captured and the illustration only 2. I’ll use draws or slings, depending on the situation, or just clove-hitch with the rope itself. The difference in set up time between a quad and 2quickdraws is negligible, and the quad is a better TR anchor. Portable overkill top rope anchor, tell me if this can be improved on 1. An additional and in my opinion slightly better anchor for 2 bolts is the quad. " The Quad is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. My question is: is it bad to leave it essentially permanently assembled in this configuration? I haven’t untied it in probably 6months Been playing around with trying to incorporate the climbing Quad anchor in Highline Rigging For EVERY route you climb, consider the climbing/fall zone below the anchor, and adjust the limiting knots closer to the center point to cover only that much movement and reduce extension. Hey! Looking for good material on specifically sport climbing anchors (bolted routes), book, videos, blogs etc I'm a beginner at this, never did multipitching and I want to get educated! (I see that the Craig leubbet and Jonh long books are very recommended but I'm not looking forward to spend 20€ on a book that is mostly trad and alpine anchors, for now. Jerk: anchors are aid The quad is more versatile in alpine climbing environments, or probably anywhere one needs to build a triple+ redundant trad anchor. Sure, cordalettes are better for blocks (my bad, I missed that in OPs post), though you can still rig a rope anchor even in blocks (best way is to just replicate under the existing anchor with some new carabiners, but you can also untie/retie). Is the Oct 29, 2023 · ok, i know this topic has been done to death but i just need simple answers. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Also, you really can't build a non-extending quad/equalette/sliding x. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. The locking draw Hey, I'm dabbling into the basics of climbing, and am wondering if it is (and why not) acceptable to establish a top rope anchor by attaching two quickdraws to the two top bolts? Yeah this looks like the anchor I would use if I didn't already have a quad when I'm climbing something with bolts. I am getting into climbing. I have plenty of areas near me that can top rope and climb. I recently started climbing outdoors. Green sling is doubled over and knotted. Let me first start this with saying that there will be no definitive answer to the question of which is better, since anchor building is a situation-dependent art that requires all tools and techniques at one's disposal to work. 9 high tensile stuff for a lot of things, but anchor building isn't one of them. I consider a lone clove hitch completely safe, but you're not going to hurt What would equalization accomplish in low load situations like top roping? A quad will be safe, but you should take the time to make sure each independent leg of your anchor can hold a truck. for building the anchor it depends on the route I am climbing but I have and use everything from two quick draws to a quad. You should watch all of your gear for wear, not just two quick draws. Post pictures and get feedback about the … Blue Water / Mammut 6mx7mm cord, open cord (not a knotted loop). I would be hesitant to use two draws rather than an equalized webbing anchor if the bolts weren't level, though. 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. There are bomber looking trees in the back of your If I am setting up a top rope anchor, in this case a quad, do I need locking biners or am I able to safely use non-locking biners? I usually use 2-3 alternating gates when setting up my quad and don't see a way that the rope could come out of any of the biners. The double sling approach is convenient for routes with bolted anchors, where slings are not as much a premium as they are in multipitch alpine. Always thought 7mm was standard. my question is should i get cordelette or a dyneema sling? i’ve Agreed, in my opinion the best approach is to learn a little from a book (like the climbing anchors classic) and then go with a guide to help cement the practical knowledge. The cordelette I can chop it and make my own Personal Anchor System (purcell prusik)along with a carabiner. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. (I didn't google the other one, in case you're wondering). As others suggested I would highly recommend more instruction. Otherwise there are more efficient systems. Get some pear shape Obviously you're already getting most of that benefit from the dynamic rope. I'm extremely new to climbing outdoors so it's good to see different anchor types I'm curious what the grigri is for on each of these. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). Then down climb back to anchor, tie in, and commence setting up to belay the second. 8kn vs 12. I‘m going sport multipitching in a few weeks and was considering making a pair of quad anchors for me and my partner to just clip onto the anchor bolts so save building an anchor as we go. Here's the quote: Avoid building anchors where no single component is strong enough to hold any potential load the climbing team could create. If a newer sport climber learns only one anchor I'd much rather it be the quad than a more complicated anchor that requires good judgment to safely execute. I used to carry a pre-tied quad for bolted anchors in Squamish, but even that felt like overkill. " For the latter, I've tried to google it, but all you see is tutorials on how to tie a clove hitch. I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. What are they doing? Is this a multi The problem with learning to tie a single type of anchor such as your pre-tied quad is that you lack the fundamentals to adapt to a different scenario (in this case, your need to extend the anchor) efficiently. Learn what top rope climbing is and how to set up and clean a versatile top-rope anchor: the quad. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Edit: To add, for sport / top rope purposes, I would actually recommend a quad anchor tied from a cordalette over this anchor you've made. 5 to 18kn (although I believe 18 to be a type for 8mm). When making anchors my go to when possible is to girth hitch my anchor points and then build with a quad or equalette depending on how much extension I need. Boom. Edit: ok got it 5 mm is not enough for normal nylon cord :-) thank you! I use the quad equalette everyday at work for top rope anchors. When you have some time, though, look into the debates about whether quads actually equalize things when a load is shifting. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. 1. Learn how to use the self-equalizing 'quad anchor' for climbing Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. Get two double length 10mm dyneema slings, hold them together and make two limiting knots. Was wondering if using the girth hitch is fine or if looping the sling around the anchor and tieing each loop end together with a figure 8 is materially stronger? I use the quad equalette everyday at work for top rope anchors. Which quad top rope anchor is safer and why? 2 and 2 (left) or 3 and 1 (right) Carabiner set-up at the anchor master point? : r/climbing r/climbing Current search is within r/climbing Remove r/climbing filter and expand search to all of Reddit Is this the actual first anchor you have ever made for a top rope scenario? Why start with trad pieces? For a lot of folks, learning how to build basic anchors off of installed anchor hardware comes first (eg quad, master point), as well as learning how to equalize two trees with a static line. The best you can do with those anchors is ensure that the extend minimally on the chance that they fail. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. Using the quad as a cookie-cutter solution to anchoring is a classic example of failing to understand the relative sources of risk in climbing. 3). In this comprehensive guide, we’ll delve into the world of climbing anchors, exploring various techniques and setups, advanced methods, best practices, and even private guiding sessions to help you Looking to add a sling to assemble a quad anchor for top rope climbing where it would be best to have extension over the (relatively rounded) edge. Jan 13, 2022 · Master the girth-hitch masterpoint for quick, efficient anchor construction on multi-pitch rock climbs. I consider a lone clove hitch completely safe, but you're not going to hurt The quad is currently the best technique for building self-distributing anchors. Make a quad. Very appealing as a 6mm cordalette bomb is quite a bit more compact than it's 7mm equivalent, but seems a lot weaker (8. I'm thinking of using one for single pitch sport routes that have two horizontal bolts at the end. The quad is great in a few specific scenarios like if you've pre-tied it and know you're climbing a multipitch route with bolted anchors. Can I get away with 8mm width on a Dyneema sling? Stick to multi-pitch sport climbing with bolt anchors all the way up and you'll be fine. A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or climbers clip into to be securely attached to the rock. What equipment would I need to set up a top rope using only natural anchors ( no bolts here or allowed). ) Thanks! Oct 29, 2023 · ok, i know this topic has been done to death but i just need simple answers. A collection and discussion plattform for all things concerning climbing anchors. I can't remember what it's called, but if you want a fast, easy anchor, maybe consider a "quad (?)". This article explains how it can be used to rig two and three-piece anchors. Redundant or Complicated? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment cycling_sender • Additional comment actions. What kind of rope do I have to use? is a 5mm rope good enough? I wanted to use a 6 mm as recommended here but it wasn't available in my local climbing shop so I bought 4m of 5mm one. I use build one when I go sport climbing (takes like 60 seconds) and then just keep it all day for each climb. my question is should i get cordelette or a dyneema sling? i’ve After you've created your anchor, clip the rope to it, climb above your anchor and get in a solid full strength piece in good solid rock and clip your rope to it. Whether you're top-rope climbing or lead climbing, knowing how to build a solid anchor is absolutely critical to staying secure. I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. I used to feel the need to put lockers on everything when it came to anchors. While it is the least secure, it likely won’t allow the rope to come out especially if you do not climb above the anchor when cleaning but still does not have the added security of all the other methods. A buddy of mine was climbing in Yosemite somewhat recently and said Alex Honnold and (i think) Jimmy Chin rapped down past them. Jun 22, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Get helmets. Also, the locking carabiners aren’t necessary. In my eyes, lockers are for piece of mind when no one has eyes on a system (think top-rope anchors) or areas with lots of movement (belay devices). Learning how to clean sport anchors is very important, since many avoidable accidents and deaths happen this way. As such, I use the 5. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. What kind of carabiners do you use for your master point in a top rope anchor? I usually use two petzl attaches but I have a friend who always insists on using locking oval biners as he says the rope slides through more easily when they're opposite and opposed. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. The simple overhand isn't likely to unroll on a standard quad anchor, or a 3 piece equalized trad anchor, assuming everything is dressed properly. Doing it this way eliminates any potential factor 2 falls. Learn how to build a quad anchor, along with some of its primary uses. If it's a critical point, I use a locker (or opposite and opposed non-lockers). In which case, you won't need to bother with gear, or cordelettes, or equalettes, or anything else everyone is talking about. Quads make wonderfully quick and easy TR anchors on sport routes for other climbers to run laps on. it all depends on the route I am climbing and how the anchors are set up at the top. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. I used to just use 2 quickdraws but I was reading If you're gonna be climbing the route for a while on TR then use a quad. Post pictures and get feedback about the quality of your anchor Jun 21, 2023 · The best climbing carabiner is the one designed specifically for your intended use. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. Every quad I've rigged up has had 2 opposing biners clipped through 3 out of 4 strands in the power point. For multi-pitch anchors there is always gonna be a belayer there, pretty easy to notice if a non-locker is being opened or dropped the anchor material. Cheap, can be used for bail anchors and I use them in the winter for V-threads. Instant top rope anchor. When it’s time to equip yourself with new carabiners, don’t just go for the most affordable carabiners. The only time it doesn’t work is if there isn’t enough space to feed a bight of rope through the hardware. Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. However I've seen people make their anchor many other different ways. For example, with 2 slings instead of 1, with a cordette in a quad instead of a sling, or just 2 quickdraws (is the lase one somehow unsafe?) I'm curious about make a quad, use it as a self-equalizing bomber TR anchor. All my draws are on a shoulder sling. It's essentially what you are trying to do. What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution Minimal extension Fully redundant Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) Bonus, two independent and load distributed master points Having said that, if you are climbing in an area with bolted belays, it simplifies things tremendously (opposed to building gear anchors). I've been using a one hand hangboard and a Lattice weight pin owned by the gym I climb at. I don't care much about the bulky issue, I want something thst is quick and safe. Keep it simple: just use a single sliding x with lockers at each anchor. Super duper bomber. Except the one on the left should move those knots closer to the master point otherwise they will become shook. Even if it does The stance was awkward and I had limited gear (I had been using the slings to tie quads earlier). There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. I have the ATCs harnesses and I am getting a rope but what else would I need? The quad is one of the most discussed things on forums like this, and yet I almost never see them tied on actual rock. Absolutely the best institutional anchor. I've done a lot of googling but most threads on quad anchors focus on when not to use them. And yes we are scared of falling. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. puizxw sixuh pngu lmh amv bjzdwv vjajix hpav yblm mrmng