Triple length sling for climbing reddit. Typically sling lengths can measure between 60 to 180 cm.

Triple length sling for climbing reddit. Personal preference: either stick to dyneema slings, or bump up to 7mm cord. Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single length = 60cm, double length = 120cm, etc. He carried a dozen shoulder slings and half a dozen loose biners for those stopper placements. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. I just recently got one. Sierra granite eats them up. Check out some double length dynema slings to make a mini quad if anchor hangers aren’t too far apart. Will deploy these while aerial pruning around my properties, and recreational tree climbing. On my glacier rack I use the electricians coil on my single length slings too, since they will only be used in an emergency. A. Mammut Contact Slings for everything but double length or longer anchor setups. Apr 23, 2024 · A plea to climbing brands worldwide: standardize on a color scheme to distinguish between sling length. Some comfy shoes to wear between climbs. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. Its intended use is as a replacement for a commonly used length of cordelette that is tied in a loop and used to build anchors with. I rack all my shoulder length slings with a single carabiner, I then have 2-4 loose wire gate carabiners on the back of my harness so I can add them to one of my slings if I’m placing a nut Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I use a 6mm cord, double length sling (as a diaper harness), and locking biner. 5mm tech cord tied with triple fishermans. This is my preferred method. Very unlikely of course. I use a triple length sling instead of cord most of the time now. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Overhand+clip both ends. Aug 10, 2018 · The Mammut Dyneema Contact Sling comes in a 30cm long draw, 60cm shoulder length, 120cm double length, 180cm triple length, and 240cm quadruple length, all of which have an 8mm width. PROBLEM: I put knots in slings to make my anchors redundant everytime (serene). Having said that, even a girth hitch only reduces the strength of the sling by ~50% so your sling will still be pretty strong. Get the scoop on how it stands up to the competition in our review of climbing slings. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. I'm going to die. You really just shouldn’t post stuff if you’re gonna act like a child when people reasonably question your setup. Always thought 7mm was standard. On two bolts I usually clove to the master point of a knotted double length sling. 316 votes, 52 comments. I recently got a Tusk Superdry 9. A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts. The length is given as the end to end distance, so the actual length of fabric will be double this. Is that just me or do other people also refer to a sling that size as a quad? Should I just call it a 240cm sling? I wanted to get the communities thoughts on this anchor system I use to clean sport routes. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. They had a problem with the cordelette I got to set up an anchors. Learn how to choose the type you need. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. If I know that many people will be top roping a route after I lead it, sometimes I will build a masterpoint out of a knotted double-length sling and 3 or 4 lockers instead of quickdraws. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. That's 12 pieces of gear for a pitch, without including the anchor or any that you could clip directly. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. Double-length slings (120 cm) For slinging natural features and extending gear below larger roofs, you will need something even longer – a double-length (120 cm) sling. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. Is longer better, more versatile? What lengths and how many slings do you carry on your saddle? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Been using a 7mm cordalette for 10+ years. MYTH: tying knots in dynex/BD slings should NEVER be done?? My new climbing buddy recently said that in the warranty for dynex slings it specifically says not to tie knots in them since it significantly reduces the strength of the load. We got you covered in this comprehensive guide to slings. 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). Besides keeping the stands an equal length, this method makes it easier to rack multiple slings over your shoulder. A cordelette can (pseudo) equalize three anchors relatively quickly, and gives you two points to anchor off the cordelette Cordellette for chopping into v-threads (wet ice) or rescue application. e. I like to carry a triple length dyneema sling for quick 3 piece anchors and slinging boulders. Could I have added 10 slings for ReDundAnCy? Sure. A couple small lockers for the bolts and a big locker and matching oval non locker for master point is what I use if I want a super bomber top rope with said tied off sling. So while climbing my stuff is well organized and easy to deal with What do you do when you take off all your slings, how do you store them/keep them organized and untangled?. Mammut has made a new sling that's many times stronger and more abrasion-proof by making it out of twisted Dyneema wrapped in a sheath, with no connection seam Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. Doubling it up would make it too short. But other things you can get: Get one or two slings (double or triple length) and extra biners for setting TR anchors. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo. My double lengths go around my shoulder and clip into itself. My favorite part is when cleaning up an anchor, I can change the length of the PAS quickly. This is just like setting a two bolt anchor except with your harness at the master point. It also gives you a dynamic element in the case of catching a fall onto the anchor. Slings, doesn't really matter. Dynex is a brand name for “ high-molecular-weight polyethylene ” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. You might need to learn a few new knots if you don't know them (clove hitch, figure-8 on a bite, etc). As… It looks like what you have on the Big Bro now is what is specified in the manual. Title. Attach 4 (or 5 if building anchor with gear) medium/small screwgate lockers in appropriate spots to connect to the wall and rope. Like Dyneema, it is one of the strongest fibers on the planet, especially when Maybe if I was going super light alpine I'd just use a dyneema sling but I'm not so it works for me. Is it acceptable to sling these with 5-6mm tech cord tied with a triple fisherman's knot? Remember you can also cut some cost by slinging single length slings with biner over your shoulder for cam placements. The two knots are just simple over hands. Shoulder some slings: Another option for stowing double-length slings is to leave them at their full length and clip one carabiner to each sling. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Some climbers like how nylon slings grip rock, while others prefer the lightness and handling of Dyneema. I generally You're attaching your double length sling via both of your hard points using a girth hitch and then attaching that to one bolt at the anchors. Stick the sling round and clip both ends (aka basket hitch). What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. I've been bouldering at a gym for two years and recently started sport climbing, too. Sometimes the bolts are spaced a bit too much for a double. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I I climb with my shoulder lengths over one shoulder each with their own biner. Previous to having this harness, I just squeezed all this stuff behind all the alpines, but it was a pain. 1. They said this was pretty thin for an anchor. Quad or triple length dyneema sling. Very appealing as a 6mm cordalette bomb is quite a bit more compact than it's 7mm equivalent, but seems a lot weaker (8. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. I use a double length sling and one locker for my PAS (it also incorporates my Belay device to extend the rappel and for redundancy at the anchor. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. What is the ideal sling length? The length of the sling determines what you can use it for when climbing. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ quickdraws. When you need a certain sling, you can simply unclip the carabiner from one of the two ends and pull it. Do you guys think this is safe? REI said it can be used for anchors. 177 votes, 35 comments. That or a miriad of things a typical sport climber already should have with them. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. I currently have all dyneema slings and am planning on buying a few nylon slings for clipping the first piece, building anchors, etc. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. For single length slings (2'), you can either put them over one shoulder (with or w/o 1 carabiner each), or double them up on 2 carabiners each: i. P anchor. They're available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm length sling on it, but bigger and smaller ones are also available. Like single-length slings, these can be made of nylon and Dyneema, materials that have their pros and cons. A cheaper option is a double or triple length sling. Apr 12, 2019 · We tested the 11mm wide, 120cm long version, which allowed us to easily equalize two anchor pieces with a figure-eight knot. I love ultratape but for ice climbing and remote alpine rock, I have started using more and more dyneema slings. A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree. Some people use a double length sling tied to a master point (my preferred method), some build their anchor out of the rope, some just go directly into the chains with their PAS and a sling. The home of Climbing on reddit. Double the sling over, grab both loops, twist, then clip them back to the locker in a good, twisty mess. The sling isn't really long enough to make it a quad and still put two knots in it. This review includes 12 of the best and most popular choices available today, which can be used for extending protection to reduce rope drag, building and equalizing anchors, and even as threads or slung Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. Auto-blocking belay device. I prefer to maintain the flexibility of keeping the gear separate. Hey /r/climbing what quickdraws should I start with? I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. On longer Cordelette or accessory cord is a skinny rope from about 5mm to 9mm (bigger is generally stronger, smaller is not suitable for climbing). It just tends to get in the way. If you're descending routes that have long rappels, you may need longer webbing to set up the rappel anchor farther from the edge or obstacles. Accessory cord is The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. 3). Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. Basically you want to avoid knots where possible, they have a big effect on the strength of the sling. You're better off with the rope cloved to the other bolt. When you pull down on the carabiner, the sling will extend to its full length. Dyneema slings are also easier to break when there isn't anything that can stretch in the system (eg an anchor of just dyneema slings). If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. As for strength between dyneema/nylon, tests have shown that even when wet, neither sling loses enough strength to be a concern, but of the two, dyneema was almost completely unaffected. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A muenchener • Rappel Length: You'll also need to consider the length of rappels on the routes you're climbing. Also, if you are going to start climbing trad in the future, I'd invest in some triple-length dyneema slings and biners to make your own alpine draws. Abalakov hooker tool. two triple length slings with a locker on them. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. I wouldn’t, personally. I like it for cleaning a sport route, setting up a top rope anchor, and starting a rappel. I usually carry 12 shoulder length (2ft), 2 double length (4ft) runners, and a cordelette when I climb there. For shorter rappels, you might need less webbing. A 30" 5. Thoughts on 6mm cordalette use exclusively as a multipitch trad anchor? Jun 7, 2024 · Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. The Petzl Connect- by far my favorite new piece of gear from Winter OR last week. it all depends on the route I am climbing and how the anchors are For multi-pitch trad cordalettes, 7mm cord is pretty standard (17-22ft depending on preference). If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. What is the best way to adjust that long sling to be the perfect length so that I can comfortably go into the anchor direct? Is it safe to extend a toprope anchor like this with two slings? Im concerned about redundancy in the slings. While many other slings will also work for this purpose, we are convinced that the Open Loop Sling is the ideal choice. Grab some cordelette and chuck on some double fisherman's knots and you have the equivalent of a new sling, plus you can make some extendables on cams that come with fixed length slings. Tie that loop into a quad. I got this cordelette, which is only 8mm wide. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. People weren’t judging you they were just trying to learn. There's a cool channel on YT called 'how not to highline' where they subject some 10-year-old-plus Metolius TCUs (like you have with the red sling) to beyond 7KN, and the slings break long before the lobes fail. That said , there is usualy degradation in ropes, especially with how well the watherproofing works, so usualy the ropes have a lifecycle starting with ice climbing, then alpine climbing, then trad climbing, then as slings (used for ice, or saxonian climbing). Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. Were you perhaps wondering if a shorter loop of cord like the smaller one you have beside it would be practical? I've only used a friend's Big Bros, and as I recall with the standard recommended cord length, you don't need an alpine draw or quick draw attached I’m coming from the thought process of describing sling length as single (60), double (120), and quad (240), which makes sense in my head. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? Triple length slings are really handy for these types of situations. I'm collecting all the gear I need for it but I'm confused on what I need to buy for cleaning routes. Sure. One light ascending device for simul-climbing, rope ascension, or rescue application. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. This method works even if you rack double-length slings under single-length slings. One-handed thumb adjustment to get the perfect length. Am i worried about slicing through a dyneema/nylon triple length sling? No. Jeez dude. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want The metal parts look great, but I figure I should re-sling them since they're all at minimum 10 years old (and probably a fair amount older). Then on the other bolt, put a locker on and clove hitch your rope onto that locker. total cost for the locker and the sling was maybe $15? for building the anchor it depends on the route I am climbing but I have and use everything from two quick draws to a quad. Personally, I don't like climbing with a tether. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. Thanks. Know a few different ways to belay. If you were to use your 6mm cordalette, you could just shorten it with an overhand knot (like you did with your other one) and make an equalette anchor. They instead recommend using a 20' length of cordelete. You could also girth the sling to your harness and tie an overhand to adjust the length. Because of the roofs, traverses, and lack of vertical cracks, you will find yourself using a ton of slings at the Gunks. Nylon instead of dyneema would be even cheaper and a bit more comfortable, but of course a bit heavier and bulkier. Tie a big length of cordelette together with a triple fisherman. Using slings as top rope anchors My climbing friends have been telling me it's bad practice to get into setting up top rope anchors using slings. So you are building up your rack and looking for some soft slings to connect all those shiny new carabiners together. Two anchor pieces, each about the size of a draw on your harness, and pretty darn light. Hey all, Looking at purchasing slings to make my own alpine/extendable draws. And honestly, two equallettes isn't bad. Aaaand go enroll in a top rope anchor course. Also you can get by using an Ikea blue bag for $1 instead of a $40 rope bag. Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. You can easily store this system on your harness. 8kn vs 12. When I learned to make alpine draws, I generally carry 4 alpine draws and 8 shoulder slings. I do always carry 1 or 2 double length Nylon slings for use as personal anchors, slinging trees, and for kliemhiest hitches. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. Any reason I shouldn't use this system? In my mind it makes for an easy and redundant system that has advantages over just using the sling without the bunny ears. What should my next quickdraw purchases be? Individuals with different lengths of webbing? Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. M. It's a double length sling that I have bunny ears tied into the end to make redundant and I girth hitch into my harness. On here sits all the extra stuff. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as "the Cordelette" as in a name for that product. The metalwork will be totally fine; it's the slings you need to worry about due to long-term exposure to UV light and chemicals. Always worth taking the extra time to make sure your anchor is Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. I was planning on using a 240cm sling and making an equalete or S. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. Do you use skinny dyneema/dynatec slings for this (8 to 10 mm)? They can be a pita to untie after loading, but a thicker nylon sling might be messy to tie in a quickdraw basket. Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. You can absolutely do all of that with a couple of long slings, but I like the easy length adjustability. Is there a particular reason to encircle the dogbone of the original quickdraw with the sling or girth hitching on its side would still be OK? I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. I use a sling (8mm dyneema) girth hitched through the microtraxion and around my neck to keep slack from building up. Just one double length Alpine draw made with a sewn sling can be used in so so so many ways. And yes we are scared of falling. Girth hitch. That’s why every complete set of climbing equipment includes a wide variety of slings in various lengths and materials. Knife. You can make each end a different length to make rappelling easier. Climbing pack I was taught by an old school yosemite big Waller. I carry a few alpine draws when I climb sport, but when I clean I still go for the PAS to go in direct. Not sure what you need the slings, prussik, and locking biners for if you are just sport climbing. w. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. In eastern europe 50m is often enough, but 60 is a safe bet. Typically sling lengths can measure between 60 to 180 cm. Say I get to the chains of a sport route and find a comfortable stance to set my rappel, but the only soft gear I have with me is a 120cm sling that is too long to use as an anchor. As others have said. By far the biggest way to drop weight without sacrificing safety is to place (and therefore carry) more stoppers. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic 1x Double Length Sling (Edelrid Aramid shown here) and Friction Hitch (Sterling Autoblock shown here) on 1x carabiner This is my “rappel kit” to extend a rappel with a backup. It is definitely not a necessity, and I'd probably leave it behind on Equalizing anchors using slings can get annoying really fast, and you have to carry several sling to do it. Do you carry Quickdraws? How Many? Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. When you’re in the middle of a hard climb, it pays dividends to not spend any extra time or brain cycles on determining if you’re grabbing the right tool you need in that moment. Throw the sling over one shoulder and under the opposite arm so that they run diagonally across your torso. I have 6 alpines (60cm/ shoulder length sling, Camp Photons on both sides), and my main partners have at least 6 if not more. I haven't carried cordalettes for years. I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. Keep slack out of your static anchors. Hey dudes, I was about to buy some new double shoulder length runners (48 in/ 120 cm), but realized I had some accessory cord (6mm monster cord from… Oct 22, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. You can still get ultratape at Moosejaw. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). Some of my first pro were moac's and they came unslung. Slings are incredibly versatile, light, strong and Really depends on the scenario. For alpine I'll sometimes take a 6mm one but it is substantially weaker. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). ). I use Mammut Contact slings because I'm bougie (they're the best handling IMO) I stopped carrying cord a few years ago and won't ever go back. But if not, I'll use a 20ft 6mm cord, don't care what brand, it's just cord. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). A simple, fully adjustable lanyard to make anchoring easier, faster, and safer. But where to start? How to decide length, width, and material? And what is Dyneema anyway? Don’t worry. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 305 votes, 96 comments. I tied a length of 8mm nylon cord around my tie in points to extend my primary device (Microtraxion) above my secondary (GriGri) which is attached to my belay loop. Very overwhelmed on where to start. Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. Now sling length is another aspect to consider. That said, if you have the route totally wired and know all the requirements, then racking the cam with the appropriate draw or sling might make sense. Thread it through your tie in points, then tie an overhand. Knotting it will create a bigger decrease in strength than typical, and you'll need to use triple-fisherman knots (rather than the standard double), which are somewhat difficult to tie and dress well in cord that's so stiff. A PAS of some type for cleaning (there are specific PAS products but I just like using a nylon runner). A lot less material and weighs nothing. If you already have some QDs from sport climbing, you can bring those, but I rarely do. alpine draw. May 3, 2018 · From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. The retailer I buy off is only offering either 8mm or 11mm in width. Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. So you need to know exactly what length fits your requirements. nrwhe cbbyf evkz jana fkzzujx qbzqa fesp jgyc cspnhz otism