Slab climbing indoor reddit. I do love my Skwamas, but want to try something different.
Slab climbing indoor reddit. Yes, weight matters in climbing performance (especially hypertrophy outside of finger flexors and pulling muscles). Was my first 5. People also fall in pendulums as well so you'll be falling outwards anyways. Should I give it a try or should I put it off for now? Edit: Thanks guys, I'm gonna give rock climbing a try! With anything to do with climbing, the primary activities you'll be doing are pulling yourself up and gripping onto things. I can't even do one pull up but I'd like to think my legs are decent in terms of strength. On a treadmill, you control the speed, angle and time of the run. What are your thoughts? Suitable for slab At my rock climbing gym they have a wall to teach new climbers the basics and part of it is learning how to fall. 1-2 hours per session with adequate rest between climbs twice or three times per week with rest days between is optimal. Even if My rock climbing teachers recommended me the sportiva kubo. I've been climbing for about 6 months now. com Dec 11, 2017 · Looking at the graph above there isn’t a clear correlation between steepness and indoor vs outdoor climbing, so using our current data it looks like the stereotype of indoor climbers being rubbish at slabs is just that, a stereotype! Jun 23, 2024 · Mastering techniques for overhangs and slabs can be a game-changer in your climbing journey. More info provided below :) Hey guys, I am currently looking to update my La Sportiva Mythos (been climbing through three pairs in the past few years). TLDR: I am looking for intermediate but comfortable climbing shoes for indoor climbing with slight/medium downturn and low/medium pre-tensioning. How do I start progressing? Hello all! Ive been climbing in Evolv Kronos and while they are great, im wanting something more for top rope, for the small footholds and overhang/slight overhang. I mainly top rope and i boulder with my friends as well, but i prefer top rope. Being afraid of getting hurt isn't irrational, it's safe, and a big part of climbing is risk management. In my experience I felt like the edge of the shoe was kind of positioned under and behind my big toe which made slab and vert more difficult because I had to be extra aware of where the shoes edge was actually making We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I climb about v3-4’s. I tell people that indoor climbing and outdoor climbing are two different sports. They lasted me 3 Slab for technique? Hi everyone, I’d like some of your opinions regarding a discussion I’ve been having with my climbing partner. Aug 11, 2022 · In this article, we’ll learn all about indoor climbing walls and their angles. Indoor bouldering is pretty safe, but it can go pretty bad if you are unlucky. Unless you are climbing 40 hours a week. I’ve gone through dozens of shoes doing everything A comment about the "drop the heels" rule: it works for friction slab or smedgy footholds, but if you're climbing "steep" slab (closer to vertical), this won't work as well because you're relying more on edging than pure friction. I've been climbing slabs for over a decade, indoor and out, and have yet to cheese grater my way down on a fall. What Is Slab Climbing? Slab climbing requires far more precise foot work and relatively static and slow movements. A large percentage of the outdoor routes in my area are at least slightly overhanging, and overhang seems to be my biggest weakness. And falls are more 691 votes, 162 comments. If you are doing a wide range of climbing with one pair of shoes, professionals tend to prefer soft rubber because the negatives can be compensated by getting strong feet. I. I like it because I have adhd and usually a very loud and "busy" brain, climbing slab forces you to slow down, breath and be calm. This barrier is frustrating, but given my time on the wall I understand I just need to keep at it. Jun 8, 2022 · Here are our six keys to master-class slab climbing. Scary, runout slabs and poorly protected climbs are my strongest styles but I've done loads of overhanging sport routes too. MembersOnline • HarryCaul ADMIN MOD A subreddit dedicated to discussing and reviewing climbing shoes. While the softer angle enables climbers to place more of their body weight on their feet, slab climbs maintain the challenge by having smaller holds. Nov 11, 2023 · Slab climbing; loved by some, hated by many. Sep 22, 2021 · Slab climbing is hated by many but loved by the dedicated. When discussing “how steep” a wall is, for instance, we have three general terms: slab, vertical, and overhang. Reply reply ktfe • Absolutely agree with this. Most people prefer soft downturned toes on shoes for indoor overhangs. comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment josh8far • From google: Slabs are rock faces that are angled at less than 90 degrees or less than vertical. In the extreme, being taller/heavier will have the greatest advantage on low angle or slab climbs where you can maximally use your Reddit's rock climbing training community. From advice on which gym to visit to videos of world cup IFSC climbers, you can find it all here. As such, the main muscles groups you should be focused on training are the back muscles (particularly Latissimus dorsi) and the forearms. 21 votes, 26 comments. You often see this in both comp climbing and it has been shown before on pro climber vids where they wear one of each shoe depending on if they need stiff or soft. What do you mean by all rounders? It seems that the definition is changing. I love slab. 5 years and been through a few shoes so thought I'd write a review based on my experience in case it can help people in the future. I was so bummed. I’ve been bouldering for about a month now and see a lot of comments on this sub about how beginners should learn to fall properly. Read, follow, and absorb them, and you may just learn to love climbing without holds. 10b-c, while projecting 5. There is some steep hiking for a few crags around boulder canyon though. One thing to look out for is stuff in your landing zone. I just wondered exactly what the “proper” or safest way to fall/land is? Love it or hate it, slab climbing is part of being a well rounded climber. MembersOnline • Vertical-Living ADMIN MOD Climbing shoe reviews (Tenaya Indalo, Iati, Butora Senegi and Gomi) I've been climbing indoors for roughly 1. Anything related to indoor (and outdoor) goes… Reddit's rock climbing training community. I've loved them for everything. Anything related to indoor (and outdoor) goes. Consider top rope to bouldering! Consider slab climbing! Will lessen the impacts of weight. I find it very therapeutic and a much better experience than big burly muscley climbs. . A subsection of slab is friction slab, which sounds like what you are talking about (again just my vocab for it). I do some lead climbing, but the majority of my climbing is bouldering in the gym, due to convenience. My skwamas are going out for their 2nd resole today while I am out of climbing for a bit cause of my A2 pulley. trueGreat shoe, but they are probably not the most beginner friendly. So to answer your question: It's really hard to compare routes of indoors to outdoors. Here's what you need to know. But I find indoor route climbing absolutely impossible. It's not a team sport, so you can enjoy climbing slabs even if your friends don't. Often since softer shoes gives you more sensitivity on footholds and they force you to be more conscious about your pressure on feet, they can also be really beneficial to improve footwork. I would recommend letting your feet rest between climbs, taking off your shoes, making sure your shoes don’t have any air pockets and have someone review your foot placement techniques. On the other hand, they flash V4's that are overhang or virtually anything that isn't slab Jan 31, 2022 · Many of the most extreme slab cruxes consist of sidepull combinations, pulling sideways on vertical edges with arms extended in an iron-cross position. #1 I'm not as unfit as I used to be but I'm still really out of shape. The type of shoe you want is more based on style of climbing and personal preferences. Hey! Now that I have bouldered for a while I wanted to buy a pair of new shoes after my first ones (Red Chili Circuit LV) I saw a great deal on Scarpa Boostics. Here's everything you need to know about slab climbing shoes. So yes, experience matters. There's no brute forcing this type of climbing, just awesome footwork and god-level balance. Still love the hard rubber tho in contrast to my soft first pair. The home of Climbing on reddit. Hi all! I have been climbing for 2. For bouldering, you'd probably want more down turned shoes (but again depends on local rock) for heel If one’s goal is to be super strong on overhanging problems then is there much / any value to be found in climbing vertical or even slab problems? Long story short: I have been indoor bouldering 1 year next month and I cannot do a V3. Linville Gorge is also about 3. Some of the earliest forms of rock climbing were on large easy-angled slabs encountered by climbers while 33K subscribers in the indoorbouldering community. Also surprisingly durable for a high performance shoe, lasted 8 months before I resoled them could have probably pushed it another month or 2. I started climbing I was just like you, climbed inside up to a V5 level and struggled to get my first V2 my first go outside. Climbing involves a lot of complex movements that aren't easily trained with isolation exercises. El dorado canyon is near boulder as well, my friend says El Dorado is one of the best climbing spots, never been there myself though. Indoor and outdoor climbing are almost totally different skills. With a climbing wall, you can climb a slab, where the angle is less than 90 degrees, or an overhang, where the angle is greater than 90 degrees. See full list on thewanderingclimber. Rumbling Bald is about 3. I'm wondering if the scarpa Drago would be a good first soft shoe, or if it would be too demanding on my toes and overall foot strength? A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. 5 years and am currently climbing in women's Miura Lace Ups. Learn how to master precise footwork, subtle body movements, and effective use of friction on tilted rock surfaces. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. ) On the other hand, if you are very comfortable outside you might find indoor climbing much harder (due to lack of friction for shoe scumming, for example) But at the end of the day I would In my climbing vocabulary slab is anything less than vertical, regardless of hold type. However I am worried if the downturn would be bad on small footholds on slabwalls in the climbing gym, which are my favourite. Jun 11, 2024 · Unlock the secrets to slab climbing with these tips from Rock Spot including keeping your heels down and edging with climbing shoes. My grade quickly plummets, however, when the wall becomes overhung. 1. 5hrs away and has some epic run-out slab climbing. /uj yo fuck slab climbing on lead I’m top roping that shit like a Gumby. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best New Controversial Old Q&A [deleted] • A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. I'd also recommend stopping by the local climbing gyms, Denver Bouldering Club is a must visit for top quality indoor stuff. There are things you do outdoors that you rarely do indoors: smearing, stemming, crack technique, tiny edging. For outdoor, I would have dedicated shoes for slabs vs overhang. I have flat and rather narrow low-volume feet. My current shoe is a 39. In general I find outdoor grades to be more consistent within an area and then within a region than gym grades (even on problems within the same gym. Is there a benefit to wearing full t shirts and big pants? Since you mentioned slab, I'm assuming you are also climbing outdoors. I’ve typically going with neutral shoes (although I did have a pair of Evolv Kronos. I used to sell climbing shoes and often people look for “beginner” or “intermediate” shoes. not sure how hard that gets but this v13 looks pretty much just friction, although video quality sucks Been working on some slab climbing. If you want to stand on tiny pebbles on granite or grit, or small limestone edges, then a stiffer pair could be nice like the Tenaya Iati or Scarpa Vapour series. One major drawback for training boards that I see is that the training only really applies to steep climbing. 5hrs from the Triangle and has some amazing adventure trad climbs. The tough part for most of us is we have way more access to indoor climbing. I occasionally climb up to just to practice falling to get comfortable with falling and learn my timing on adjusting my body mid-fall as needed. Climbing a slab requires a good sense of your feet and how to use them as well as balance and rock shoes with lots of friction. trueThe best thing you can do at this stage is make time to climb more. On low-angle slabs, palming is often the key and helps keep the center of gravity over the feet. Ours are walltopia, and it has such a rough lining that it eats shoes up, especially bouldering on slab or small chips or weird starts. Sep 22, 2023 · Slab climbing can be intimidating: it requires subtle technique, and the falls can be scary. If you had to recommend 1 shoe, you used every climbing session (2-4 times a week for me) for indoor bouldering what would it be? I am having an incredibly hard time deciding, because whatever I pick is likely going to be the only shoe I use for the next 1-2 years. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Of course the power and strength can still improve your lower angle abilities, but why aren't there boards at vertical/slab angles to be able to train that style in the same way? Is there practical reasons or Depends on the gym, and how comfortable you are outside. For slab, it's good fo have shoes with neutral profile and sticky rubber, since you'd be smearing a lot. Nowadays, gym culture has taken over and some people seem to have narrowed it down to different types of gym climbing, or indoor/outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. For the former, pull up are the movement that most closely resembles what you do on the wall and are a standard exercise for climbers A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. Luckily I got over it and stuck with it and now I'm sending I have only climbing in relatively hard shoes (Scarpa Vapor), but am looking to move into some softer shoes, to improve technique and foot strength. And yes we are scared of falling. Let people enjoy or not enjoy whatever they want. The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. I mean, you generally can't climb slab or crack in a gym so no one is prepared for that, unless they climb outside a lot. Nov 11, 2023 · Ready to leave the beginner shoes behind? A reliable pair of intermediate climbing shoes might be exactly what you need to take your climbing game to the next level. ” In my experience as a climbing instructor at Joshua Tree, a common client profile for guided climbing is a client Thats great if you like climbing slab, since all high level climbs are that on these textured walls, but you don't really get that monkey strength from overhands, or that ridiculous pinch strength. 490 votes, 96 comments. 5hrs away and has great trad climbing, some bolted lines, and a ton of bouldering. 5 Skwama and really like them for most things but am looking for shoe recommendations to be a bit more of a slab/warm up/edging casual shoe. 11s on slab Since you plan to climb only indoor you could even consider trying something softer (especially if you are a lighter climber). You’re engaging different muscles and using different techniques which ultimately can put off a climber who finds overhang climbing fun. 103 votes, 64 comments. Climbing slab requires good technique, precision, and trust in your abilities. Soft shoes for high end bouldering? Both. The only indoor climbing place in my city is on a private university campus and is only open to students, faculty, and staff of that uni. trueBe as welcoming and supportive as possible. rj/ I mean at the gym, outdoor climbing is inferior A good friend actually managed to get a vertebral fracture while indoor bouldering yesterday and I know of one of the workers at my gym that managed to do the same (while climbing in another gym). I get by primarily with passable technique and footwork and okay finger strength, none of which I seem to be able to transfer to climbing on anything worse than a shallow overhang. If you learn a few tricks, you’ll find yourself much better equipped to take on big days out on friction slab or that weird slopey problem at the gym. For smearing on sandstone, grit or indoor climbing a soft shoe like the Veloce is likely to be very good. 218 votes, 26 comments. I know bouldering and climbing come with risks but I wondered how likely injury is and - I respect this isn’t scientific - if any regular climbers can share their perspectives and experience of injury? Foot technique for slab Context - I've been climbing for 5 years, at anything between V5 to V7 (indoor) depending on style. Solution comps are what I use. From essential gear to top global locations, this article covers everything you need to navigate the world of less-than-vertical climbs with confidence Nov 17, 2023 · The shoe that's best for you depends on your body type, climbing style, the type of rock you climb on, and how much you want to spend. Not many gyms have a style of climbing that mimics very hard slab climbing, so it might be frustrating to gym climbers to hop on any slab (my buddies laughed their asses off and I felt like a baby deer walking up a blank fac). Indoor routes that I return to teach me a valuable movement or reinforce a technique I can apply on other climbs. And I don't think I'm a terrible indoor boulderer as I've done 10+ V6 and V7 benchmarks on the Moonboard. Can climb most V4 slabs in a few attempts and all V3s but can't even touch many V4s that require actual skills. Depends on your climbing walls inside. In this article, we will explore some essential tips and tricks to help you navigate overhangs and slabs with confidence and ease. I do love my Skwamas, but want to try something different. Despite that, I'd really like to give indoor bouldering a try. The idea is “nose over toes. Watch technique videos like Neil Gresham's masterclasses on Youtube (link in the 337 votes, 50 comments. MembersOnline • dabsandfish Apr 16, 2025 · He put 15 days into his pair, climbing mostly in Squamish and the Bugaboos and submitting his poor shoes to a wide range of gnarly granite slabs, techy vertical faces, stem corners, finger cracks, hand cracks, and slightly overhanging dykes. As per title, I'm awful at climbing anything on an overhang (V4-6 on slab/vert, V3-4 on overhang). Anything related to… Generalized Tips and Resources for Beginners Hi, I've been climbing for a whopping two point five months now. Here are 5 drills for instant progress. Slabs are worth getting into. If you want to wear your shoes for hours or climb a lot of slab, no need to get something with a more aggressive A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. I’ve been climbing for about a year. While im still a beginner, im looking for Also consider what you typically climb. In top rope im doing consistent 5. Good low level setting is really important to get new people into the sport! Heavier individuals tend to experience more finger strain. If that's all you do, you'd be missing out on getting other types of movement on slab, slopers, volumes, etc. All of my climbing buddies struggle extremely hard with slab and they're never surprised I can flash V4's that they can't even start. I think it's hard to set indoor slab since so much of the challenge with outdoor slab is that you are often just frictioning up featureless climbs, which you can't really do on gym walls so they end up being pretty easy with features you can pretty securely stand up on. Hardest slab is really hard, like this 14d. Solution comp is the best all rounded bouldering shoes in my mind, while the theory is excellent for slab smearing. Literally this. I noticed that they might not be the ideal fit for Definitely a rock climbing wall on 1 side place a hard point for a belay system even if you don't use it it's a good thing for resale if a rock climber wants it. you'll learn from slab climbing is invaluable imo, but yes, it is a scary prospect to slide down the wall catching your face and groin on protruding V-beginner handholds. I am Mostly indoor but also outdoor when I am able to. The accuracy, balance, flexibility etc. When you climb a slab, the general rule is that you keep your weight on your feet. They feel really well balanced between soft and stiff. Do more of it and it will come. Another reason why climbers hate slab climbing is related to the fact that slab climbing is completely different to overhang climbing. That's what I find coming back to climbing after a long absence. Learning good slab technique and being comfortable with its committing nature is essential for many climbers. Reddit's rock climbing training community. You want to lean towards softer rubber for slab climbing smearing and indoor climbing/standing on volumes, but you want harder rubber for tiny edges. They excel mainly in steep climbing that is generally inaccessible to a beginner. I've been focusing on slabs for quite a while and haven't had this happen to me yet. Discover the intricacies of slab climbing, a unique style that prioritizes finesse, balance, and technique over sheer strength. Showing and following examples of larger climbers on social media can help. Super fun and puzzling route. In rock climbing a slab climb (or friction climb) is a type of climbing route where the rock face is 'off-angle' and not fully vertical. Stiff vs. I'm a petite climber at about 5'1 (F) and I find that my skill level on slab is miles above my skill level on anything else. Any tips for getting better at a roof climb? Its a whole other monster than regular climbs I'm used to. Either way, I agree. Its honestly preference based. 34K subscribers in the indoorbouldering community. If there's a big hold or volume jutting out from underneath you, take that into consideration. Are you looking for roped climbing or bouldering? Stone Mountain is about 2. I’m comfortable leading low 5. Outdoor climbing has multiple different options, holds, creases, crevices and tiny options all over the face of the route that would all be considered “legal” or “in” if you used them. 10d and 5. I climb a little bit of everything, but I love slab, and end up spending probably 75 percent of my sessions on vertical or slab walls. My lace-ups are deteriorating and I'm looking to upgrade now but to a shoe with a similar fit and stiffness. Have a pair of each for what you need and when you need it. I climb much harder on overhung routes vs slab, and part of that discrepancy is down to my technique I believe - specifically footwork. Indoor climbing is designed to be training for outdoors. e. 11a’s. Vertical to overhang requires more dynamic movements where you essentially try to get the moves done before your arms get pumped out. It's been a good experience, they are really comfortable and versatile for both climbing and short rock routes. A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. I'm absolutely stoked on it, however I don't have a regular climbing partner than has any more experience than I do. I’ve (34F) been climbing for about 18 months now (mostly sport with a little indoor bouldering), and have recently started to really try to work my weaknesses to open up more outdoor route possibilities for myself. But that might just be me idk. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. He claims that slab climbing is a sure-fire way to improve climbing technique (greater awareness of body position, balance etc). Hey everyone. Reply reply More replies Jaypav1 • 55 votes, 94 comments. On vertical walls, I regularly climb in the region of V5-V6. The closest publicly available gym is 57 miles away, so it’s hard to go enough to make membership worth it, and day passes are too expensive. I also find slabs/mantles intuitive and easy by comparison to overhangs and really squishy stuff. It used to mean multi-pitch, single-pitch, trad, sport, bouldering, gym, etc. I'm just curious why there aren't really training boards for slab climbing. Kinda assumed the climbing gym would be the same, but I feel quite underdressed at my gym. MembersOnline • Felipasaurus Improving with overhangs I've been climbing regularly for a bit over a year, with the majority of my climbing hours having been spent on an indoor bouldering wall. Board climbing is a great way to get stronger for climbing but it is a very 1-dimensional style of climbing. Unpopular opinion, if you are still learning techniques and climbing lower grades, get a cheaper pair (La sportiva Finale, or something) to climb on V2s and practice V5s and wear your solution comp when you are ready to send it. 12-. But it's definitely not what limits beginner performance or something you should worry about at this point, especially for you with your low bf%. I gym climb 2-3/week, primarily sport climb when outside (a variety of styles but not too much overhang at this point) and occasionally boulder outside. uytkgnussljbisywujlzzhdagiwldwqrvuxhphuqbpirulbglgyu