Crimp grip trainer reddit. I have the 100,150,200,250.
- Crimp grip trainer reddit. If you're gonna try to make up the difference while climbing, start considering a failure to open crimp a failed set. totally to 3 sessions a week, maybe 4. Which grip type is optimal to get as high training stimuli as possible? In my world, both of these are half-crimp, but in (1) the thumb is down, while in (2) the thumb sort of rests against my index finger and my hand is a little bit cupped. Tension block is probably the best for simply training your crimp strength; lacks the 25mm edge that Tyler Nelson claims is best for strength. OP OP could do various types of crimp on the door frame to train some strength, and the exercises in the video are great! but I can't see OP OP really training the 'vacuum' approach in that position Training on a hangboard is a very static load and environment, so if done with proper form (and adequate warm up) really it is safer than climbing where you're moving dynamically between holds. I start with a more aggressive crimp and let the load on the finger open my crimp to about 90 degrees for hangs and consider that a half crimp. Kind of a follow up to a previous post: given the amount of time to train at the moment (stuck indoors etc. The one-armed 20 mm lift uses deadlift form: Stand with your feet shoulder-width or wider. It gives me a serious forearm pump. Apr 7, 2024 · According to Dr. The biggest benefit to training half crimp is that it is the best grip to use on some hold types. My I started training with the BeastMaker app and one of the holds in the training set is a chisel grip - where you crimp your middle/ring fingers, but leave your pointer/pinky fingers open handed. ) do you prefer to train max strength with multiple grip types (1/2 crimp, 3FD, pinch) in one long session X times a week or do you prefer to separate your grip types into dfferent smaller sessions with maybe Y sessions a week training 1/2 crimp and 3FD, and Z sessions a week on pinch Also in one of their videos they say that, based on their data, the half crimp and 3 finger drag are the two grip positions that translate best from hangboard training to all different positions. Highly recommend farmers carry as an assistance movement for any grip goals. It's most important to note, a closed crimp doesn't put you at much more risk than an open crimp, but a closed crimp does increase the risk for injuries, particularly with pulleys. This whole variety of angles and fingers is what constitutes real-world "sloper strength". On the crimp grip, I got a 4… I did this by training max hangs in strict half crimp; I'm still only training this grip, and still only with max hangs. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. At 15s your right hand begins to do way to much work while your feet arent doing anything. Tread carefully with the full-crimp and do small amounts at sub-maximal load levels on the hangboard and avoid pushing to this grip to failure when bouldering. Pinch strength and crimp strength are somewhat related but mainly use different muscles to achieve the goal of holding on to the hold and not falling off. So, simply put, a crimp grip is the way your hand is positioned and how your fingers are bent when using a tiny hold. The half crimp can be trained using almost any grip strength training method – hangboarding, edge lifting, board training or bouldering – although you will choose an exercise that meets your desired level of sport specificity or training precision. Having said that, I think tools like these have their place for a climber in warmups, cooldowns and recovery. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. Fortune favors prepared fingers. Open (aka: drag) Grip The Open Crimip. As opposed to a normal half-crimp. But adding weight will still demand that you pinch harder. Also, reverse curls and reverse curls behind your back are fantastic for grip and forearm training. Nowadays I use the shortened version of the protocol as a warmup for real hangboarding or for the kilter board. Quality pieces, good spacing of handles, also good spacing in resistance from one gripper to the next. Chisel grip strains your A2 significantly less than half crimp, and using the muscles you developed from 3 years of climbing on your less-trained A2's will leave you at a higher risk of injury. I've seen so many people who are able to get tiny crimps that are smaller than a single pad. I got my Trango hangboard 4 months ago and I have been training the crimp and the pinch grip. I have the 100,150,200,250. Tyler Nelson, for off-the-wall finger strength training, we should choose the grip that produces the most force with the most finger involvement, which typically means a 4-finger grip somewhere between the half crimp and open hand position. IMO you should grip open-handed whenever possible. You'll have to full crimp sometimes, and it becomes more likely to cause injury if its the ONLY thing you do. My recommendation is to be very conservative with the strength training — a few sets of sub-maximal one-hand 10mm deadlifts for reps is fine every few days. I feel like past… It's possibly a grip duel device, kinda like arm-wrestling, but for grip strength. The crimp, depending on how exactly you do it mainly uses your Flexor Digitorum Profundus. 15 votes, 14 comments. May 9, 2025 · If you’re looking to build stronger hands and forearms, our guide to the best grip strengtheners will help you choose the perfect tool. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. Given its not too big you should patent it and try to license the design out to fitness companies /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. They're super convenient, which is why they're useful and popular, but it's still just one exercise. With training, you can grip even quite small edges without crimping. That includes holds which force your grip to close a bit into a kind of open-crimp position. I think a crimp grip would come under this too. Today's Feature: Grip gear you should buy (or build) Earlier this week, we talked about grippers and how you probably don't need to spend money on them. 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. In my right dominant hand on tiny holds going into a full crimp feels like my strongest grip. Has anyone trained wrist or forearm strength in particular and noticed useful carry over to improvements in climbing? Has anybody has success with training this longer term? I recently see increasing content online relating to isolated training of the wrists via forearm training inspired by forearm training tools and drills with the wrist wrench and heavy roller style exercises from the likes I don't think I can improve strength if I only hangboard 1/2 times a week. Side note: There's discussion among trainers and climbers alike about half-crimp and what it means for training. If you had a weakness at open hand it maybe wouldnt show that much in your board climbing. All the force is coming from gravity and pulling through your arm. If you’re calling it “grip strength” I just can’t take anything seriously. Crimp grip gives you a mechanical advantage for force application - it's easier to keep your fingers closed, and therefore gripping a hold, while in crimp grip. g. If your climbing goals never require you to use a half crimp then I see no reason to train it. But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. . Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. But some holds must be crimped, and Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Also, people, don’t be afraid to full crimp! Not training it and then going all out on an outdoor problem/route is more dangerous than strengthening it in a controlled manner. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. Obviously grip type preferences differ person to person, as Dave MacLeod famously prefers 3fd to half crimp, but Im surprised Yves is using a chisel grip in his training. Reply reply Training - less risk of an overuse injury, similar gains In easier parts of your route - the different grip types use slightly different muscles. Grip strength is essential for bouldering and sport climbing. pockets) or if I don't need to grip the holds with much force. I'd also recommend starting a pull-up routine a 2-3 times a week on non-climbing days 15 votes, 16 comments. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. Dedicated to increasing all our… Is there a particular reason you're avoiding closed crimping while climbing? I would probably address the strength difference on the hangboard, not on the wall. If you had a weakness in your half crimp then you can see better improvements by training said weakness. I highly recommend practicing crimping on all sorts of holds to make sure that when you decide that you need to crimp to make a move you can do it properly and safely. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. This is a hangboard not a CoC#4. Is rock climbing by itself good enough grip training, or is grip training more a way to improve climbing? Will rock climbing instead of gym grip exercises produce similar results for general gripping strength and endurance? Full crimping in the gym is no more or less dangerous than full crimping outside. It seems like this grip type changes the entire anatomy of what tendons or under load. Think of it like you were doing leg extensions this whole time and suddenly you tried doing squats. I've been seeing ads for a grip strengthener where you don't squeeze but you flex out. And the only drawback I’ve 11 votes, 26 comments. Jul 13, 2021 · Then here’s all you need to know about crimping in climbing! A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small edge or hand-hold, or mean the way you grab onto such a hold and the hand position (the crimp grip) you’re using to do so. If you're crimping all the way up the route, your open-hand grip will be stronger near the top, if you're open-handing up the route, your crimp strength will be saved for the crux I did some searching on the sub, and if anything it seems most people are stronger in open or half crimp than full crimp. Pinch Training - climbing or specific training acquired? I have been trying to improve my pinch grip. For example, take the intermediate slopers on the BM2000 and hang at the edge with an open grip. Support grip is used for holding onto something, like a shopping bag, dumbbell, or somebody's gi. The author, Ned Feehally, full crimps on his home wall. The drag improved quickly, was my strongest grip overall, and transferred very well to pockets. I do not recommend training full crimps as that will put a lot of stress on the tendons and joints. I think I paid around $15 per unit. I sometimes pull out the full crimp if the edge size demands it, but even then I can often get away with using my open crimp. While the pinch uses your thumb muscles, it uses a different finger muscle, the Lumbricals. I also have short pinkies, but when watching back some of my climbing videos about 50% of my full crimps have flexed pinkies. So if you're trying to open crimp on a problem, as soon as you close down on a hold, drop off. In short the conclusion was, train isometrically (fingerboard) rather than with grip trainers if you want to climb better. Dedicated to increasing all our… Wrist curls and other excercies with dumbbells or barbell,rice bucket training, hand grippers, farmer walks, dead hangs ? Or others. Five Effective Hangboard Training Protocols for Increasing Grip Strength and Endurance. Depending on your training goals that may be what you’re looking for though. What is the ultimate way to grow those skinny forearms? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Tazerenix •• Edited It actually sounds like the best idea for a grip training device that does not use your bodyweight. This is kind of intuitive maybe for a half-crimp. As a new climber should I focus on training my weakest grip (half-crimp) or just keep on climbing? I noticed that the general advice is to avoid hangboarding until you have a decent amount of experience climbing, which I don't since I've been climbing for about 4 months (3x /week). We have a similar device at our gym, it's very fun way to get a pulley injury This specific grip is by far my strongest grip and the one I use almost exclusively. You shouldnt need to take your weight fully on to the crimp. Is it worth training my half crimp strength specifically? Apr 24, 2023 · Enthusiasm for this ‘new’ training method has exploded, as attention is drawn to the incredible feats of strength happening at the intersection of rock climbing and grip sport (Yves Gravelle, Tanner Merkle and others), while at the same time, suspension type fingerboards and grip tools have become far more available. You can do grip training by letting it roll down your fingers, then closing your hand shut. This is what my hand strength trainer looks like. I come from a weightlifting background, and like many others, I've experienced the benefits of progressive overload training. I'm strongest at full crimp and weaker as the grip opens up, with 3fd being my weakest by far. I've used captains of crush also a very high quality torsion spring gripper and should be comparable in pricing. I'm looking for some advice and discussion on significantly increasing grip strength for rock climbing. Most people train half or open crimp on edges because research shows that isometric strength training translates to other lengths of contraction within 30? degrees of the trained joint angle. I'm around the same climbing level as you at the moment, and I have personally seen my results improve over the past few weeks by starting a grip training program. Be sure to rest at least 5 minutes between sets, and adjust the amount of weight added for each set (and grip position) to stay within the guidelines detailed above. So, following that logic, would big forearms make one a stronger climber? I'm thinking of using grip training equipment which are basically clamps which you hold shut. Grip trainers are effective at what they're meant to/able to do, which is train some of the muscles involved in gripping. Translates into contact strength, slopey crimp strength, and big boi sloper strength. It feels awkward, and putting my pinky on the hold feels like it limits my grip strength. For me, training (off the ground lifts) full crimps with a flexed pinky has helped my performance immensely. I've been trying to research this topic but it's very hard to find anything out there about In my experience a lot of people when training half crimp have poor form and sort of collapse into an open grip halfway through the hang, which leads them to exaggerate their numbers. And the right hand crimp tool is almost always a ratcheting handle with crimping dies made specifically for the terminals being used, not some stamped piece of junk. Advanced climbers can do additional sets that target two-finger pockets (open-hand) and pinch grip. Reddit's rock climbing training community. The closed crimp provides (some sources say) 17% increase in grip strength from an open crimp. I know the pinky is responsible for an insane amount of grip strength and I feel like it's starting to Image 1 - My normal half crimp on an 8mm edge Image 2 - A finger tip down style grip I have been experimenting with different grip types. My default grip on the wall is usually a mixture of open crimp (4 fingers on with 3/4 hyperextended), and half-crimp (all 4 hyperextended). /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp strength. Is there any reason I should focus on improving open hand strength? I suppose open hand gives you like another inch of reach and half crimping everything can lead to injury (coincidentally I have mild synovitis in Friction matters, so dry your hands or chalk up for consistency if you want. It seems to be the most "active" grip in terms of muscle use. However, in my left hand the full crimp actually feels weaker than keeping it half crimp or open But to answer your question campusing requires a lot of pulling power and finger strength in the half crimp grip. The only time I use an open hand grip like 3 finger drag is if I'm forced to (e. I think practicing crimping is different from training crimps. Feb 9, 2020 · Description: In this video, we are going to discuss if crimping is safe, we are going to break down the crimp position, and we will discuss proper training and management of crimping. Also the fastest hangboard gains come from neural They do build up your forarem muscles, not neccessarily evenly tho. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Most grip trainers are semi useless. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Yes, you'll have to drop the weight for a while, that's because you have some muscles coming online in a half-crimp that weren't working as hard in a chisel grip, and they are weaker. One of the main issues you will face is that if you only use the normal grip you will mainly train the muscles in your forearm that lead to the fore and middlefinger. All of the ones on the market are sort of useless and only focus on pinch strength. First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. What are he negatives of using it my way as opposed to the 'C' shape way? I think the "C" shape is more an optical illusion than anything else, and that under load (e. Learn five effective finger training protocols for climbers, as well as nutritional secrets for tendon health and strength gains. If your half crimp is your weaker grip I'd say definitely train it on the hangboard, having more even numbers across grip types will likely mean less injury when you are climbing. For the most part just do what feels comfortable at this stage. Feb 24, 2023 · While grip position may vary based on your goals, to protect against injury, train the half-crimp/semi-crimp position—without your thumb (right photo). Open hand training gets you stronger at open hand grip. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Nov 21, 2022 · Initially focus on training the half-crimp and open-crimp grip—one set each. I currently weigh ~175lbs and deadlift 485 (455 with switch grip, no straps) which seems like reasonable grip strength for my weight. Also, half crimp is often recommended for training specifically because it's harder for most people. And I have noticed that Image 2 (finger tip down) is a lot more powerful on smaller holds & painful. May 10, 2022 · However, it may be worth drip-feeding the full-crimp into your training to see if you experience benefits. For training, I see two approaches: train all grips equally so no grip is a glaring weak link, or train only the grips that will lead to better performance for the climbs you want to do (usually half/open crimp, unless you only climb at like HP40). Open hand and crimp are strong for two different reasons - one is force application, and the other is "systems support". I prefer the heavy gripper brand. Supercharged collagen. Yay or Nay? Hey Folks, I've been climbing for a year and just purchased a No Hang Device. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. Hangboarding and weighted pullups will help build strength in those domains. So it makes sense you either hangboard with a half crimp and 3 finger drag, or only the half crimp as your open hand is already strong. I'll often grab the hold with 4 fingers, but to get in position to actually properly hold it, I'll have to drop the pinky. Is just training chisel a viable option? Some insight into this would be appreciated because Im not too familiar with chisel grip since I dont use it myself. Jan 31, 2022 · Only ever training in a half crimp or openhanded position and then expecting to be able to crimp to your maximum on a project seems like madness to me. In regards to safety Pinch grip is pinching something between your fingers and thumb, you can train this by holding two small free weight plates horizontally between them. I know it's bad technique, bu on 90% of the holds I grab, I don't use my pinky. Over the years I've convinced many people to switch from primarily training a chisel grip to primarily training a half crimp. Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. But I never thought to take the same approach with three-finger drag or a more openhanded grip. This has worked for me. Beyond that I half-crimp everything. I guess I am just reiterating that the vacuum crimp 'style' is just an approach to more efficient crimping, not a type of crimp as OP OP is asking. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. Obviously yours does as well but the crimping factor is unique. (Photo: Neil Gresham) For a climb like this, you need better footwork and not more crimp strength. So, I'm curious as to why this approach isn't recommended for grip training using a NoHang device (such as the Tension Block). Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Best grip strengtheners? I do understand the normal exercises for this but my question is for the extra devices that I can do from my desk while working at home. However, I am stuck around the V4+ threshold of climbing and find that my crimping and pinching strength is severely May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. But since every grip i trained normally doesn’t use a flexed pinky (half crimp, open, 3 finger drag) it seemed worthwhile to train it. About a year ago, I began indoor bouldering (rock climbing) and coming from a swimming/lifting background my grip strength is severely lagging. Half crimp gets you better at crimping (which is used at board climbing quite a lot). There are plenty of foot holds, and on two different walls, so the crimps are just to keep your body tight to the wall. Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. To add some personal thoughts to the debate, I like to think of it more as matter of using an 'active' grip or a 'passive' grip. (Photo: Beastmaking Collection) GETTING TO GRIPS WITH YOUR FULL CRIMP A lot of climbers feel like they lack full crimp strength, or feel that crimping is I've been hangboarding for years now and mostly train with half-crimp and three-finger open. I am of the opinion that you should train in a grip position that is specific to how you grip holds on the wall, or at least your hangboard training should be specific to your goals. Didn't really make me stronger. If you turn the tool arround arround and just pull with your ring and pinkyfinger it will get significantly harder even at lower weights but those fingers make To your question, I spent several months training half-crimp, drag, and open-crimp full-crimp (in that order). What are some obvious benefits you would find in the gym, day to day life and maybe a trick or way to shock people when you start making grip gains? I've realized that I more or less never use 3FD in actual climbing, though I have begun training it on the hangboard in addition to half-crimp. I have read that you can either improve your pinch grip (wide or narrow) through climbing routes with the grips you are trying to improve or by doing hangboarding/no hangs with the grips you wish to train. All this only applies for intermediate or advanced climbers. I'm thinking of training half crimp with all 4 fingers only 1/2 times a week, and the other times doing mono crimp max hangs, at the appropriate load, for the other 2/1 sessions of the week. Make sure you're covering all these basics each time you hit the wall and start pulling hard. Reply reply eshlow • lacks the 25mm edge that Tyler Nelson claims is best for strength /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. I have a pinch block and I think it helps, but not quite as drastically as hangboarding helps with crimping strength. Most people have a natural preference for some grips, amd if you dont train specifically to supplement preferences, you can get more unbalanced. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out there. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. Is that better? Do you need both? Or are both crap? This isn’t half crimp! Once you’ve solidified the skill of getting into that grip position, you can start incorporating it into your climbing and strength training. Is it supposed to train my finger I found hanging onto slopers with only the first pad of your fingers to be great training. Strength prerequisites for one-arm hangs and a digression on fingerboard progressions With new readers coming from other subs, we're covering a new topic every day this week for those that are less familiar with grip and the resources here on the subreddit. What are some cool benefits of grip training? So I've started grip training with CoC this week and think it's really fun. In my experience, pinches are similar to slopers in that gripping strength is not as important as technique and body positioning. If you There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. Apr 24, 2023 · Block Pulls offer variety and some specific advantages They allow you to train your grip with reduced stress on the typically associated musculature (shoulders, elbows, etc) This can be beneficial if you have some little tweak or strain to work around, or if the rest of your climbing / training is putting a significant load on those areas. Obviously I will Jan 4, 2024 · Crimping is the strongest grip in climbing. Finger Anatomy also plays into it, for example some people have really short pinkies and tend to either 3fd a lot of holds, or use more of a "chisel" grip (middle and ring finger crimping, index and pinky open) when others might half crimp. As others have said, highly recommend making your own. Farmers walks might be a good way to train this. 172K subscribers in the climbharder community. But my fingers felt amazing/much less tweaky. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 21 votes, 12 comments. after a slip, or when pulling) it deforms into a full crimp. How do I train to get better at those? Is it just about getting stronger? What do folks think of standard grip training equipment for getting bigger forearms? From the little climbing literature I've looked at, it seems bigger muscles are better. This means training a half crimp also trains full and open because they are within that 30 degrees. It seems like in real world use this would simulate more of a titty-twister grip than a crimp grip. I did a shorter version of the hangs twice a day for about a month a while back (only did half-crimp & open hand grip). I can’t really imagine when or why one would need to use this grip while climbing, not to mention it feels super unnatural to hold my fingers in this position. vxitqd gorj ayles qzmnt jnlg vpidm ayy mvqqd xwoa xkbnp