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Bouldering injury reddit.
409K subscribers in the bouldering community.
Bouldering injury reddit. Over the years, I've accumulated injuries to both shoulders from non-climbing sports. I’ve been climbing for 6 months and climb about twice a week plus one gym session (strength training) per week. Looking back at the session, think that was the straw that broke the camel's back as had a few twinges of pain after a couple of other routes, so should have listened to my body sooner I'd recommend starting with "gentler" exercises like rice bucket, putty, rubber bands, and such things first before going into hangboard. Before the doctors (real or fake) of Reddit dispute my claims, let's just assume for conversation's sake that I am correct in my diagnosis. when i fell, my foot got caught in between two crash mats and i took all of the impact into my ankle and completely folded my ankle in half. Feb 11, 2022 · Every session I see people taking bad falls because they haven’t learned some basic skills. Aug 7, 2023 · There are some moves I 'ban' myself from doing just because the risk of injury is so high that it's not worth sending something for 3-6 months of recovery. Injured my wrist and my doctor says to avoid all unnecessary wrist movement for 6 weeks -- what exercises can I do in the meantime? UPDATE: Injury occurred in December just before Christmas break. I stopped as soon as I felt that jolt of pain. Immediately after injury: bouldering was very hard on my shoulder, especially Gastons, I took several 4-5 day breaks when it would feel strained. 5 years, 100% fatigue buildup and committing to a bad move. In every single gym the accident log binder is overflowing with injuries due to bouldering (mostly bad landings), while injuries from roped climbing (top rope or lead) are scarce. In medical records it was stated that it was a skydiving injury, and I was covered. I fingerboard once a week and Anyone else experienced a finger injury with no pain on an active hold but pain upon touch/pressure to the area? Catastrophic corporeal injury caused by transient regression of ability in previsously-mastered, repetitive tasks due to somatic satiation of danger: there is is no such thing as an accident, only carelessness, and inattention. I just moved to the Bay Area and decided to check out Movement Sunnyvale. Currently battling a bad back injury and this has got me thinking about how to prevent all future injuries by strengthing and weight training. I've been told that it's my Ulnar nerve by a physio and that seems to fit. And yes we are scared of falling. took a good fall from about 12 feet up on a slight overhang. After only ever getting injured while bouldering and climbing for 20 years, I’ve just stopped bouldering for the most part and stick to top rope/lead, and absolutely no dynamic bouldering for me. Is there anything else I can do to speed up the healing like stretches or a cold/warm press? " I am a bot, and this action was performed We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Like others said, down climbing is really important to reduce the strain on your body from landing. I would think that top rope poses less risk for acute injury (so long as the knots and ropes are double checked) due to less impact with the ground. I was wondering how dangerous falling down can be, assuming you fall and hit the ground "correctly" (rolling onto your back). Stupidly, didn't appreciate that I was swaying. Add your thoughts and get the conversation going. Get your rest. Some people have said weeks, some… I climb indoors. Appreciate injury-prevention tips from older [40+] climbers here. I’ve been wondering if I should quit bouldering and stick with top rope. Hi all, So I've found with bouldering (particularly outside), that the most common injury I get is from the impact when… The second occurred during my climbing warmup, climbing a v3 I had done before, hitting a small pocket with my middle two fingers (a bit of a dynamic move) when I slipped and ended up hitting the pocket more of a mono and loading it after the slip. There was no injury incident so I think it's the result of over training. Five weeks on and there is definite improvement but I still can't climb hard. My first finger injury was after 2. I primarily boulder and was hoping to really increase my climbing volume and skill building but fate seems to point me otherwise for the time being. I've already looked into how this injury should be treated, but the real question I've had is one that I haven't really had answered. 5 years post injury. But always get clarification from your insurance, if you are not sure. I broke my ankle back in April and was back to climbing my highest grade after only a few sessions. - don’t bleed on the rock or gym holds 2. I First Major Bouldering Injury I did it guys. I too have weak ankles from a soccer injury, but have not suffered any major sprains from climbing as I am very careful while bouldering. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I jumped on this boulder on a free hanging wall, got to the top of the wall and started down climbing when I noticed a little boy run directly under me, and continue to stand DIRECTLY under me. This is different than normal golfers elbow in that it isn't due to a muscle imbalance I believe. That'd be a relatively safe and easy way to stay consistent with climbing while you recover as you won't have to worry as much about landing on your bad foot. Normally my climbing sessions are structured so I take good rest within a session. Ive been seeing a PT who is prescribing various exercises such as range of motion stuff, and rubber I am now about 7 months back into climbing, still wearing the wrist widget and avoiding dynamic/wristy moves (mantels, big slopers, pressing, above head underclings, etc). Not a climbing injury but a snowboarding incident back in January which caused me to stop climbing for a few months. Do you have any you love? Those who have been through severe sprains and/or ankle breaks, how did you protect your ankles when you got back to bouldering? I'm expecting to have to stick with top Hi there, I want to get back into bouldering after having tried it a few times already, but I remember being quite scared of falling down the last times. Light top roping was better, but belaying made it ache the first couple times. It's February now, and after a lot of healing and recovery exercises leading into soft bouldering, my finger is finally starting to feel somewhat normal. I was bouldering, had to do a dynamic move, to catch a hold with my hand leaving me only with 2 point of contacts (my hands). If I understand correctly, the thinking around soft-tissue injuries has changed quite a bit in the last decade. Does anyone have any advice or recommendations for wrist straps/braces I can buy for when I'm climbing? I don't mind if they're a little restrictive, I just want support so I can keep climbing and reduce chance of injury if I fall. - trim it I've recently come to find out the term for my injury which has been bugging me for a couple years now. My symptoms are very similar to your description, so it does sound like FDP. Jan 2, 2023 · I've seen traumatic injuries in bouldering and ropes. I started to climb down, realised I couldn't work the angle so dropped. It was incredibly busy so I was just warming up on anything that was open. Hey there bouldering crew. Personally, I wouldn't totally rule out more dynamic climbing if it isn't aggravating the injury. However, I had the experience that bouldering caused me to have knee problems. I feel them especially on big dynamic reaches. Are there any other tips I should give them before they give up? Nobody's responded to this post yet. There's very little that could have prevented the injury besides just having stronger fingers. But of course it depends on the severity of the injury. I went from light weight-bearing to heavier weights, then climbing with a splint, and im finally down to just tape. I'm recovering from a severe injury and I am guessing it will be another month or more before I can climb again, but I'm thinking through ankle braces and how incompatible most are with climbing shoes. I occasionally climb up to just to practice falling to get comfortable with falling and learn my timing on adjusting my body mid-fall as needed. My left leg landed moving to the left with the weight of my body on top of it. Jan 9, 2019 · After only ever getting injured while bouldering and climbing for 20 years, I’ve just stopped bouldering for the most part and stick to top rope/lead, and absolutely no dynamic bouldering for me. I’ve had 2 pretty serious injuries from indoor bouldering. I lost my ability to pursue my passion for playing guitar and rock climbing and I have been to many different doctors, physical Reddit's rock climbing training community. 13 votes, 33 comments. When I fibbed myself, I went to a sports injury doc for followups. MembersOnline • TastyBratwurst ADMIN MOD Does your gym have top rope? You could try climbing easier routes with only one leg (with doctor's approval). Trouble getting into bouldering, keep getting injured : r/bouldering r/bouldering Current search is within r/bouldering Remove r/bouldering filter and expand search to all of Reddit I've worked for multiple climbing gyms over the past 10 years. For context I have been climbing for just over 2 years. I mean but a flapper isn’t a bad injury to begin with…hardly something to stop climbing. I didnt quite reach the hold, it was like a 30 mill edge but that doesnt matter. - clip it 3. You are certainly more scared of falling than you need to be as a result of your previous injury (and that’s OK!). I tried researching this online but get conflicting information. Some sources say bouldering Injury is such a broad term. Physiologically, my fingers seem to have adapted to the Hi there Educational-Ant220. Just clean it up, fold the flap down, tape it up and keep climbing. What I do: warm up, take collagen supplements, pushups/pullups. Bouldering and knee problems I have been bouldering a lot, mostly indoors, last year and found it a lot of fun. I was never diagnosed with a specific injury but my doctor suggested it was either bursitis or tendonitis from repetitive use. Seen people in the gym accidentally get their achilles punctured through a carabiner and they're dangling from it upside down. Pulley deloaded hangboard like fallsapart recommended is better than feet on the ground, but feet on the ground works if there's no other option I did a writeup last year for r/climbharder http How much time does a mild finger tendon injury need to heal while “at rest”? Can low-grade climbing help encourage my finger to heal faster? What back or pull exercises can I do instead of pull-ups/toes-to-bar to continue strength training for climbing? Can finger rolls be beneficial with a hurt finger or do I risk injuring further? I used this chart to self-diagnose an injury a few weeks ago, then saw a physio and he confirmed the diagnosis. Hey everyone, this is my first time on a Reddit page as I am desperate to seek advice for a shoulder injury that has kept me out of climbing for the past 7 months. 409K subscribers in the bouldering community. I stupidly pushed through the pain and weakness in my left wrist working on this project until I physically couldn’t do it anymore, and the pain in my Hey all, a couple of months ago I posted across a number of climbing subreddits to try and better understand an injury I had in my right middle finger. You are falling on a soft mat every time if you are bouldering in the gym. Every session I see people taking bad falls because they haven’t learned some basic skills. . This morning while browsing I saw yet another post, like mine, from a beginner climber requesting help with finger pain. First ever flapper, how long do I need to sit? Can I climb on this? Question Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A FeralStoat • Rules for flappers: 1. I broke my foot bouldering a month ago - I fell unexpectedly and landed poorly. I've seen traumatic injuries in bouldering and ropes. How hard can I climb on this thing? I've been climbing for a little over a year, (V5-7 indoor, V3-5 outside), injured it a The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide contains everything essential for building a training plan including stability and antagonist training for injury prevention minus the “filler” content like psychology, eating, climbing technique… read a lot, liked this the most. fwiw I have been climbing about 17 years; v8-9 before injury, climbing v6-7 with the wrist widget on about 1. Nov 24, 2023 · The only advice I gave to them for injury prevention was starting to do more strength training, especially in the legs. Is it a bit irritated / inflamed? Is it fully ruptured? Go get imaging done so you know how bad it is, depending on results get it operated, do physiotherapy, or just get a wrist brace. Letting it become chronic makes things stick around more in my experience. I haven't had anything serious, but experience pain in different parts of my fingers. Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the body of this post: So I’m very confident I got a TFCC injury so I have been taking it easy and taping my wrist for the last couple days. I went for an indoor session last night and I'm fairly certain that I sprained my ring finger A2 pulley on a overhanging sloped crimp. The time after the inflammatory phase of an injury is the best time to deal with an injury. Many new climbers are under the very false belief that the matting in a bouldering wall makes it all completely safe, and this just isn’t the case. Injury is such a broad term. You won’t lose as much strength as you think you will. If it is in fact dangerous, I'd appreciate some advice on how to tackle my fear and go climbing regardless😅 Thanks! I'm also planning to do more rope walls to further reduce wrist strain from things like bouldering techniques. I reckon the ratio is AT LEAST 15 bouldering injuries for every roped climbing injury. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I've seen a some discussion on here about how having warmed up fingers and climbing seems to either negate or just mask the pain of a finger injury, and the general consensus seems to be that climbing is okay (and even beneficial to rehab) as long as you don't start to feel significant pain while climbing. At one point last year, I had 3 finger injuries at once. I (19m) recently got a lumbrical injury (4 days ago) and was wondering when I can start getting back into climbing. It happened during my first ever bouldering competition, originally thought it was a small tear in the sheathe but now I am pretty sure it was a lumbrical tear. i’m still in an aircast boot, but have been just climbing one legged for the time being when i can I know bouldering and climbing come with risks but I wondered how likely injury is and - I respect this isn’t scientific - if any regular climbers can share their perspectives and experience of injury? I've been climbing pretty regularly since 2013, but as soon as I started to reach into the 12's 2 years ago and project harder routes for me, I've been experiencing lots of finger injuries. Cordless and proud. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Anyone who has experienced a wrist sprain (not TFCC, probably grade 1 sprain) from climbing: how long did it take you to get back to the gym? I started experiencing wrist pain last week while working on a V4 project with some intense slopers. Jun 23, 2024 · Bouldering Injuries: Common Problems and How to Avoid Them Are you an avid boulderer looking to stay injury-free while pursuing your passion? In this article, we will explore the most common bouldering injuries that climbers face and provide you with practical tips on how to prevent them. Very very rarely are bouldering injuries caused by falls compared to finger/connective tissue injuries. The only advice I gave to them for injury prevention was starting to do more strength training, especially in the legs. I’ve noticed that my main limitation has been bicep soreness, both as it arises over the course of a session and how I still feel sore climbing two days or less after another climbing/gym session. The home of Climbing on reddit. There are some moves I 'ban' myself from doing just because the risk of injury is so high that it's not worth sending something for 3-6 months of recovery. At my rock climbing gym they have a wall to teach new climbers the basics and part of it is learning how to fall. I am at a stage of my climbing (V5-6 level) where my finger strength is really holding me back, so have been following a training plan to improve this. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned pro, understanding these potential risks and learning how to trueI have been injured in the wrist now for about a year with no improvement, I am 18 years old and have a TFCC injury (strain and not a tear) in my wrist and it is preventing me from being able to do any day-to-day activity or be as active as I would like to be. Does it count as an indoor bouldering injury if your knees are trashed from competitive skiing and soccer and simply standing up brought a complex meniscus tear to light? After 7 years of climbing, it finally happened. Hi, I injured/sprained my left wrist last month doing the noob mistake of tackling v3s back to back within my first 5-7 sessions bouldering. When I started climbing, my limiting factor was forearm pump, but within a few Feb 11, 2022 · Every session I see people taking bad falls because they haven’t learned some basic skills. Just recently got back into climbing again and it feels great. However, I'm always working on strengthening those weak areas as much as possible so that I can slowly introduce more and more aggressive moves to injury prone areas. My 2 exercises that help with 90-95% of low back pain. As for rehabbing the injury, definitely consult with a PT. hey y’all, i tore multiple ligaments from a pretty nasty bouldering fall about 6 weeks ago. I was doing a campus route, out of a cave and up to the top (about 20 feet). Oct 10, 2023 · Get your rest. For instance, I couldn't go on my usual 5km run anymore, as my knees would start hurting 2km in. And don't get medical advice on Reddit. I left a lengthy comment and thought it might be worth a post in the event that any new climber finds it and it helps them Apart from rest, what’s the number one thing/exercise that helped you’re nagging tendon injury heal? I’m at the point where my initial inflammation is down enough to do light climbing without pain, but it doesn’t seem to be getting that much better and it’s still occasionally sore. But I get golfers elbow like symptoms when I climb too much which has required me to take off 3 months (1 month and 2 978 votes, 120 comments. 1. Resulted in me being sidelined for a couple weeks with this injury. I'm absolutely positive that the impact on your joints when you jump down from the top is so high, that injury is inevitable if you keep bouldering long enough. (I think I got it doing a gaston move on a slab wall). It's healed for the most part, I recently went back qto the gym with a warm up and warm down routine, worked my way up through the v0s and 1s to a single v3 with 4 minute breaks in I have a self-diagnosed TFCC injury in my dominant (Right) hand. gplvrcswyqmpxnreaffmxhbvdglharfbzwgcnbxmlabbmihl