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How to train grip strength for bouldering reddit. Anything related to indoor (and outdoor) goes.
How to train grip strength for bouldering reddit. That said, grip strength for climbing is a bit different as its locking you fingers and not crushing in your hand. Reason I am interested in training it is because Im fairly weak at that style (which I put down to strength not so much technique), and my winter climbing area (which Im training for now) is stacked Nov 9, 2022 · Methods of Training Finger Strength There are essentially 4 different methods in which you can train your finger strength: Climbing: Bouldering or climbing on a board Campusing: Either on a campus board or boulder wall Fingerboarding: Isometric hangs Lifting: Taken from grip strength sports However each method comes with its own level of precision in training, in other words how easy it is to Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. The closed crimp provides (some sources say) 17% increase in grip strength from an open crimp. But strength gains never hurt anyone either. I typically use a hang gripper for thumb strength (pinches) and for warm up. Keep in mind that this article is centered around increasing bouldering strength (which can be valuable to sport climbers) and the exercises and dosing have been designed to accommodate relatively short duration climbs with powerful movements. Any tips or little things you could make/buy as a tool to increase this? I've thought about using some old 2x4's to hang weights from so I can use it around the house when not at the gym. It also sounds like you need some rest days. If you can't get to the climbing wall/crag often enough, you could do some hangboarding, but only if access to climbing is what limits the amount of training you can do. Oct 15, 2024 · Stuck on tough bouldering moves? Discover how to start strength and power training to enhance your climbing skills and boost your confidence. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I've had success with this, 7 second on 3 seconds off until failure. As for off-the-wall strengthening you can hangboard, to reduce the load initially you could use a rubber band or use a bigger edge, although if you struggle with hanging Reddit's rock climbing training community. Learn what’s driving the trend as well as how to use the protocol. Will rock climbing instead of gym grip exercises produce similar results for general gripping strength and endurance? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Some of the best that worked for me: "Power fingers" -> antagonist trainer, simple, push out the rubber bands with your fingers and hold for x amount of seconds. If you identify a specific weakness, programing in 15 minutes to address that weakness May 10, 2025 · Incorporating grip strength into a training program depends on your level and training goals. However, there are great forearm exercise that you can do that are low impact and great for endurance training. Is bouldering mainly about weight? Obviously there are so many variables but is weight limiting me this much? First of all, raw strength isn’t as big a concern for most climbers since bouldering is more about relative strength, but training for raw strength - usually weightlifting- still has its place. They are shaped like wedges or cones and are great for grip training also Indoor boulderer here. It's not worth taking so much time/effort away from other climbing/training. He’s about 148 lbs. I like the idea of hypertrophy training using whatever you want, but the published data indicates that gripper training is at best tangentially beneficial to climbing. You'll get hella pumped. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Jan 12, 2022 · Pinch strength is hard to gain and easy to ignore until you need it. Core strength is very important for Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. From what I've read, it's way too early (in terms of time spent climbing and grade) for me to start hangboarding. Its really easy to over train the muscles in your forearms and develope issues like golfers/tennis elbow. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. Any tips are great. I was wondering if anyone has figure out a way to increase grip strength for things like rock climbing when they have hypermobility in their hands/fingers? The False Grip for rings skills in gymnastics trains the same muscles but in a way that's more transferable to climbing IMO. i always see recommendations that train crushing, like making a fist tighter. Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. This works both in bouldering and sport climbing and is especially useful for climbers A more climbing specific way of building grip strength would be something like sets of hangboard repeaters on a deep jug hold (not a deep crimp, a literal jug you can wrap your fingers around). Incorporate various grip types, such as open hand, crimp, and pinch, to target different muscles. Mar 26, 2025 · The Solution: Train finger strength by hangboarding. You can do all those without any speciality equipment! If your ok spending a few bucks, you can buy special grip training cable attachments or pulleys. Block lifting 101 Block pulls are fast becoming a go-to for training climbing-specific grip strength. My grip fails on certain holds. I started bouldering, indoor only, in January and have been hooked ever since - averaging 3 sessions a week 2. Considering the number of joints involved in any given hold, that basically means you only really gain isometric strength for the exact hold being trained. In this video we cover 5 ways to maximise your grip without hangboarding or increasing finger strength. Hӧrst encourages climbers to focus on 6 different grip positions: the half/open crimps, open hand, wide pinch, and three 2-finger pocket positions. Jan 19, 2024 · Strength training will help you manage quick muscle contractions, cardio will give you power and resistance in climbing, and working with weights will make your joints stronger so you can pull massive dynos! Reddit's rock climbing training community. Bouldering and System Training The short and simple advice for improving pinch strength, along with the associated techniques, is simply to gravitate toward problems that offer Hand grippers do not build tendon strength or neurological at all. Here's a question for yall. They're super convenient, which is why they're useful and popular, but it's still just one exercise. I think the priority goes something like this: Finger strength. You can do Plate pinches, bar hangs, deadlifts where you hold for 10 seconds at the top, and reverse bicep curls. What exercises would you recommend to train muscles specifically for compression climbing? Im thinking of wide- to medium-, full-hand sloper compression, fridge style. 5hrs each. after the workout my forearm pump makes me feel like popeye 14 votes, 14 comments. All of your effort goes into maintaining a strict crimp, and that allows you to best overload the finger muscles that hold a crimp. What other exercises can i do to improve my grip strength?' Archived post. sets to failure). 5kg, 1RM chinup is +36kg I've noticed while bouldering that the biggest factor holding me back is my grip and finger strength. e. Doing some sort of cross-circuit training can help too with all-around base-level fitness that can translate into more strength on the walls. Climbing and pull exercises alone can be pretty taxing without additional training. Learn about gear, nutrition, hangboarding, on-the-wall workouts, and more! My local bouldering gym has a group of HUGE body builder-type dudes who climb together one night a week, specifically to work on grip strength and strength-to-bodyweight ratio stuff. Here is what he told me: When you put your hand on the slopper in the sweet spot, imagine a mathematical plane extending from your hand in the same angle as your hand. Concentrate on climbing each problem with crisp technique and smooth execution Jul 8, 2024 · In order to increase your stats, you should include a rock climbing grip training routine that puts emphasis on grip and finger strength. If not all our effort to try and crush the candle for a few seconds at Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. half-crimp, 3 finger drag), minimum edge hangs Equipment: hangboard, no-hang device, any sort of edge. These may include functional strength training, antagonist training, and exercises targeting the How forearm training improves our climbing? I'll start that by forearm training I don't mean any types of static hangs/holds but rather exercises like dumbbell (wrist) curls , reverse curls, wrist rotation etc. Your grip is giving out because you need to improve your technique, not because you need to improve your grip. From personal experience, getting stronger grip strength past a certain point is not going to better your technique overall unless you're planning to hit some v15s/9as in the near future. but the guide will have you work pinching and curling your wrist (in both directions) as well, which are obvious functions of grip but i never thought to really work them. For beginners and those in their second season, bouldering is a great way to build grip strength. I found hanging onto slopers with only the first pad of your fingers to be great training. . Hand Exercise Tools Are you looking for tools to enhance your finger strength, endurance, dexterity, and muscular tone? About a year ago, I began indoor bouldering (rock climbing) and coming from a swimming/lifting background my grip strength is severely lagging. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Is there any research if such type of training translates to improved grip or fingers strength? Have any of you found this Apr 25, 2023 · Due to the dynamic nature of bouldering, power elements should be incorporated into training to meet the demands of the sport. Due to the limited availability of hangboards and weights, you'll have to get creative with this one. For bouldering, you are mainly limited by absolute strength as most boulder problems have only a few hard moves while route climbing demands more endurance due to the length. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. MembersOnline • crimpy_thang ADMIN MOD So for that reason, the thing that actually progresses your climbing from season to season is an increase in grip strength and power, which is why you should constantly be training it in some way. You’ll get more used to the holds, and you’ll lose that grip for my life instinct that we probably all had at our individual slopper genesis. I use both, but as for finger strength, all my gains have been from hang board sessions. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Long story short, grip strength will not come quickly, it's built over time, and even further climbing grip strength specifically is all over the place, the best way to train it is on the wall. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. Built a little routine to train it, want some critique. Anything related to indoor (and outdoor) goes. I don't bother training pinches at all, because I don't encounter them often climbing around here. Your finger stress should come from climbing and over doing it is asking for an injury. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Reddit's rock climbing training community. This is a list of 12 great training exercises that come from training books, interviews with professional climbers, social media, Reddit and some of my climbing friends. For example, take the intermediate slopers on the BM2000 and hang at the edge with an open grip. Either that, or what I do (when I have the option to do so in my current frustratingly scheduled work-life balance) is train finger strength in the morning/noon before a climbing session in the afternoon/evening. truewhats great about the guide is it works all forms of grip. It's most important to note, a closed crimp doesn't put you at much more risk than an open crimp, but a closed crimp does increase the risk for injuries, particularly with pulleys. And work this throughout the day . When training your grip strength (which is mostly reliant on isometric forearm strength), you only gain strength around ~15 degrees of the angles of the joints being trained. Some of the training exercises require rock-climbing grip training equipment or other exercise tools but most of them can be found in your local climbing gym or inexpensively online. For some stats about myself, I'm 5 6 and weigh 56. - Even if your grip strength is absolutely terrible, static hangs aren't the ideal exercise right now (until you're really working on problems at the gym that require grip strength, avoid hang boards all together). Grip trainers are effective at what they're meant to/able to do, which is train some of the muscles involved in gripping. The pain is more likely because you’re trying too hard. Mar 25, 2022 · Plus 10 bouldering Tired of your home-wall workouts or of sending the same boulder problems at the gym? Strap on a 10-pound weight belt and you’ll have a powerful grip-strength and power workout! After an extended warm-up, climb a circuit of five to 10 moderate boulder problems (a few V-grades below your limit). I wouldn't do much direct grip training though. That is if they even train their hands at all. Recently got into rock climbing. Also, reverse curls and reverse curls behind your back are fantastic for grip and forearm training. In short the conclusion was, train isometrically (fingerboard) rather than with grip trainers if you want to climb better. Maybe spending too much time looking for a good spot or trying to grip it. There have been a half dozen climbing specific studies that indicate grip trainer strength does not correlate to hangboard strength or to on-the-wall performance. However, some users suggest incorporating additional exercises or routines to complement the climbing experience and achieve a more complete workout. Stronger fingers mean you can use smaller holds—and holds that felt unhangable before will feel more manageable. However, I'd say your statement is rather true in the reverse way: If you want insane grip, you need to train specifically that. It is possible to train crushing grip statically , I don’t believe it to be overly affective , but either a thick candle or if you can sacrifice melt a candle into a wax ball . I expect the false grip to be the gold standard for sloper strength soon with the wrist wrench/arm wrestling protocols as a stepping stone. I currently weigh ~175lbs and deadlift 485 (455 with switch grip, no straps) which seems like reasonable grip strength for my weight. Has anyone trained wrist or forearm strength in particular and noticed useful carry over to improvements in climbing? Has anybody has success with training this longer term? I recently see increasing content online relating to isolated training of the wrists via forearm training inspired by forearm training tools and drills with the wrist wrench and heavy roller style exercises from the likes My weight is probably the biggest issue, I am 210 lbs @ 5’9 but a lot of it is muscle (powerlifting background). What equipment do you use or what training methods to improve especially finger power, without actually climbing (like I said I go to unregulary to make it count) thanks beforehand Feb 25, 2025 · Boost your climbing performance! Learn how to improve grip strength for rock climbing with the best exercises, tips, and training techniques. Just Aug 14, 2021 · Train to climb harder by increasing your grip strength with these exercises that will take your climbing to the next level. Utilize grip strength tools like grip trainers or tennis balls for specific conditioning. Beginner climbers and even those in their second season would benefit more from bouldering since it allows them to also work on their movement technique. 8. There are a pleitora of grip strength equipment to train with. See if there are any bouldering gyms near you, and give it a shot! /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. This would result in increased muscle mass, which sounds great, but for a climber isometric strength gained from increased connective tissue throughout the forearm is preferable, which is gained from static holds. I attended a Dave Graham bouldering clinic a few years ago and I asked him a similar question. Redditors generally agree that bouldering can be a great workout for overall strength, particularly targeting the back, shoulders, and core muscles. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. How can I increase my finger and grip strength? Jan 1, 2025 · To increase grip strength for rock climbing, focus on exercises like hangboard training and wrist curls. My buddy just started and he did a v5 first day without even knowing what to do. Is there a way t ease into training the end-of-finger grip? Also, for pinches, I looked on youtube for pinch grip training and I drilled some small 2x4 wood blocks together and added eye bolts to add weight. AND that climbing with compromised grip strength leads to injury. Hangboarding will be better for training crimp strength than climbing. Grip strength helps feel safe and go longer, biceps strength at full extension helps on overhangs, but core strength (being able to keep tension throughout your body as you climb) constantly comes up as the #1 thing you will always use. Currently climbing V4 consistently, did my first v5 recently, and can flash most V3s. Try doing a push-up routine after your session to help build some antagonist muscle strength. Meaning grip training for amateur/hobby rock climbers is mainly going to be endurance (I. As long as your body stays under the plane, it is easy to stay on the slopper. Translates into contact strength, slopey crimp strength, and big boi sloper strength. I'm not doing any fingerboard or anything like that for several months, but I am doing hangs and farmers' walks to increase grip strength + the other benefits they have for shoulder mobility/strength and tension for heavy farmers A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. Grip strength and technique, and some research on how to optimize your training routine to focus on climbing-specific strengths. You can do grip training by letting it roll down your fingers, then closing your hand shut. I have been training open hand strength with an Atomik Cannonball XXL and sloper holds. I have a good back and pulling strength but lack of grip strength is holding me back. But it transfers well. Also, pinch strength is quite width-specific, so I'd have to train multiple different widths to get better at all of them. Aug 14, 2021 · If you want to increase your grip strength, you’ll need to train on specific grip positions. I'm hanging a tension block and a resistance band from a gymnastic ring and doing Train your technique, not strength. You can check out r/climbharder for specific finger training and hangboard routines. Honestly, the grip strength that is practised in this sub is a little different from what you use in rock climbing in general. As you begin to Second the pinch training at the start of a session. Exercises: max hangs for multiple grips (e. 33 votes, 86 comments. I've been trying to go climbing 2-3 times a week, and I also do Callisthenics and weight lifting. Again gradually build up to holding your weight . Reddit's rock climbing training community. Any recommendations for wrist, grip, and finger exercises to get a better hold? Specifically exercises I can do on days off from climbing, with little to no equipment (unless there’s something so awesome that you can’t not recommend it) (Also I can’t put a hang board in my apartment) Thanks y’all! How do I train my forearms proactively (in my workout programming) so that as I lose weight, I can occasionally go bouldering and not have wrecked forearms and diminished grip for several days after? If you want to improve your grip strength I would reccomend a lot of projecting, this will force you to use your grip, leading to strengthening and improve your technique (which is arguably more important than grip strength). g. Your wrist strength will improve with more sloppers. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip How to incorporate grip strength into a training program How and when you train grip strength will depend on your level and your training goals. You can still build grip strength without a hangboard. You'll find that it's much better training just to What is the optimal way apart from climbing "pinch" routes to get the tendons / muscles stronger in this area? I've been reading a lot about pinch blocks, my question is how do you train with pinch blocks, is it better to train really heavy (for optimal strength) or is it better to train mid weight and get some good endurance in those pinches? I feel my pinch is lacking compared to other areas Working on making my pinch grip stronger. However, I've always felt as though finger strength is disproportionately r/climbharder climb harder - ideas and structured training to get better at climbing Reddit's rock climbing training community. Power is most utilized in Reddit's rock climbing training community. It will help prevent injuries and also helps you later in your journey to get stronger fingers, because your tendons will only evolve until some point without training the Feb 8, 2022 · Complete beginner's guide to bouldering training. A hang board allows for a well structured workout, practical climbing grips, and allow for more weight. I Boulder V2 and climb 5. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip How do i improve my grip strength? So i wanted to improve my grip strength for a while and i finally got some adjustable grip trainers from MP and my final goal is to hang from one of the panels over my door. You want to spend every ounce of your training capacity climbing, which will improve your grip strength, but also your movement vocabulary and general technique. I have a conventional pull-up bar and was wondering whether doing finger hangs is an effective way to develop finger strength (rather than using a hangboard)? Thanks! Jun 15, 2023 · Supportive Training for Pinches Pinch strength is a complex beast, it’s not just about being strong in the thumb, the wrists come into play and you also need strong fingers to maximize the range of gripping angles. MembersOnline • cytopia ADMIN MOD I've been indoor bouldering for about 2 months and want to start developing my finger strength. Just be careful, and recognize the best strength training exercise to improve bouldering is bouldering. From advice on which gym to visit to videos of world cup IFSC climbers, you can find it all here. (Obviously I have a lot to improve on technique and balance Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. Just don’t try to pull on a I have very strong upper body strength, but my hands/fingers have very weak grip strength because my fingers are so loose & flexible. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. From tufas to aretes and even crack climbing, it pays to pinch. I understand that grip strength and finger strength are important for bouldering, and mine is pretty weak right now. If you are genuinely interested in training your grip for BJJ, your best resources are one of the routines on r/griptraining, or Dan Strauss has a grip training for BJJ instructional available, that is specifically tailored for BJJ athletes. Specific exercises will newrly always beat out non specific exercises for the specific thing they train. Time and easy climbing will help. Which will make you better at Dec 6, 2021 · Thanks for your support! Best Grip Strengthener for Climbing: Reviews In today’s list, we’ll discuss two different types of grip strengtheners: those that focus on fingers and those that train the whole hand. Dec 23, 2024 · Grip Strength Vs Endurance Depending on what type of climbing you are a fan of you will need varying amounts of strength and endurance in your grip. Oct 18, 2024 · Learn why strength training is great for climbers, with a complete 14-week training program to improve your climbing performance. Otherwise, currently I tend to do pinch training on a non-climbing evening followed by some basic dumbbell work. nyesysdpmuejapslkerotjankvjjpqipzyfdazwtldxeyoujy