Multi pitch belay device. What follows is a basic step-by-step.


  1. Multi pitch belay device. Another device might be used for multi-pitch sport and trad climbing and anytime a rappel is necessary. For example, one device might be used for indoor gym climbing and outdoor sport cragging. Jan 4, 2024 · Most climbers own 1-3 belay devices, and use different devices depending on the type of climbing, rope thickness, and location of the climb. However, the type of device may vary based on the climbers’ experience and risk management considerations. Choosing the Right Belay Device: The Basics You Need to Know Whether you're climbing indoors, sport climbing, or out on a multi-pitch route, belaying is just as important as climbing itself. 5 to 10. There are several types of belay devices, each with its own pros, cons, and Jul 25, 2023 · This is especially helpful in multi-pitch settings where you are climbing with a single partner and single rope or belaying two seconds one at a time with two ropes in “caterpillar mode. Tips and skills. the edelrid giga jul is a true “all in one” belay device. 5mm, this belay device is lightweight yet highly effective. After all, as a belayer, the rope, and therefore your partner’s life will be in your hands. May 19, 2022 · Some single pitch climbers end up purchasing a double rope tube device solely for rappelling and they use a separate device to belay (like a single rope brake assist device). Then, you'll take the leader off belay when they get to the anchor, rather than lowering them in that mode, which is far from ideal. On a multi pitch route, you reach the end of a pitch, belay your partner up and then rack up to take on the next pitch. Brahma Sakli peak: Ascent 4730m Pitch 3: Multi pitch: Cathedral Dome Line of Ascent : **and we did it** 5. Description: Known for being versatile and lightweight, REVERSO is a belay device for single or multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. Curious on thoughts about what a "normal" rack for trad / multi-pitch would consist of regarding tether, rappel, belay, anchor building, self rescue, etc. Dec 15, 2021 · Belaying from above is most common on multi-pitch climbs. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Aug 10, 2017 · The new DMM Pivot has stepped away from the standard design for multi-pitch belay devices and solved a long standing challenge. Feb 21, 2020 · The Petzl Reverso is one of our favorite belay devices for multi-pitch climbing. I Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted-braking device that performs well in every belaying and lowering task, earning our highest honor as the best belay device on the market. 5 mm range. It's the lightest option for this style of device, and if you use skinny ropes, it is likely the best. Introducing the PINCH – an all-around brake-assisted belay device ideal for single rope multi-pitch climbing. clipped on the actual anchor and not on the leaders harness. 1 large pear shaped or HMS ‘biner for clipping through the rope and a smaller D ‘biner to secure the belay device to the anchor. It feeds slack with ease, securely catches lead falls, and securely auto-blocks when belaying a follower from above on multi-pitch routes. Nov 22, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I have a good feeling for what is needed for fall protection, but less about the accessory items. (I have a guide mode atc, so I'm not totally blocked from learning multi pitch either way) Sep 6, 2018 · The Revo will appeal mostly to single-pitch sport and trad climbers who are confident belayers and want a device that allows them to belay easily without shorting the leader, while also offering a back-up in case of belayer failure. Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX solves the critical issue with most assisted braking belay devices — unwanted rope locking when feeding slack. They place the second climber on a top rope belay and the second climber “follows” the pitch, climbing it Noticeably, you will appreciate the focus on some particular products that stand out for their innovative nature: • Alpine Up - innovative belay / rappel device specific for multi-pitch routes; • Be Up - tube-type belay / rappel device with an innovative and compact design; • Rollnlock - ultralight pulley / rope clamp. To make matters worse, the GriGri is nearly double the weight of even the ATC-Guide. Featuring sophisticated geometry, it offers comfortable handling with minimal weight. He needs help, but you’re stuck in the belay system—you need to escape the belay in order to get to him or summon a rescue. Shop now for reliable, high-performance climbing gear and apparel trusted by professionals. It offers intuitive brake-assisted belaying in a small, ultra-lightweight package. Apr 14, 2020 · On longer multi pitch routes, efficient belay changeovers can save a surprising amount of time. no. May 5, 2025 · Belaying a follower or two directly off the anchor is a convenient way to ensure a reliable catch and a comfortable belay during multi-pitch climbing. How to choose? Mar 14, 2019 · Halfway up a multi-pitch route, your partner falls, seriously injuring himself. Whatever your plans—a climbing gym, sport climbing, or a multi-pitch route—you need a belay device that you know how to use. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl Neox easily feeds slack while lead belaying, and also provides a secure catch, making it our favorite belay device for belaying a leader and single-pitch climbing. Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. This feature is essential for Hey guys I've been told that you can not multi pitch with a gri gri and only an atc type belay device. This is of major benefit with regard to ease of use, brake rope control, and safety. The PINCH is a new versatile assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques. It’s inevitable because the Grigri and ATC are tried and true powerhouses in every style of climbing, from sport climbing indoors to traditional multi-pitch rock climbing outside. Simple and effective, it's changed climbing. Depending on the type of climb, you will likely opt to use a different belay device at the gym than you would on a multi-pitch for example. 2 ‘biners are used to operate the belay device in guide mode. It doesn’t have assisted braking except when you belay from the top, but again, this is the type of device that’s tried and true, tested time and again, and something experienced climbers find simple and capable for multi-pitch situations. You may also need to know how to create and equalize a belay anchor, place and clean gear, rig a rappel using natural protection and fixed hardware, and more. while multipitch climbing, the grigri works well for belaying the following climber from above. When multi-pitch climbing, users benefit from the fact that they can also use the Pinch with a carabiner, for example if they need more space between the belay sling and the belay device when belaying their body. I’ve been seeing more people bringing up followers on multi pitch routes using grigri‘s from above, i. An internal rotating wheel reduces friction between the rope and the rope-pinching mechanism, making it easy to feed out slack to a leader without activating the assisted braking function. Dec 22, 2022 · When climbers imagine belay devices, they are bound to think of the Petzl Grigri and Black Diamond ATC. It's an ideal device for belaying both leaders and top-ropers, either sport or Jun 18, 2025 · Assisted braking belay device for lead, top rope, and guide mode Ideal for multi-pitch routes, sport climbs, and instructional use Direct harness connection reduces cross-loading and enhances control Guide mode enables secure belaying of a second from above Compatible with dynamic single ropes from 8. When the lead climber reaches the top, he needs to belay up the climber who was belaying at the bottom. Is there any truth to this? Description Pinch - a new belaying experience with the PINCH, a new, versatile assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques. Semi Automatic Belay Devices Art. Generally speaking, the body belay method (from the belay loop) is an option in particular on pitches fully equipped with bolts and with smaller distances between the bolts. The guide mode feature is particularly useful for belaying from above on multi-pitch routes. Aug 28, 2021 · The complete beginner's guide to multi-pitch climbing. Removing yourself from Jan 22, 2025 · Our review of the Edelrid Pinch gave high marks for its light weight, fluency with skinny ropes, and a reliably safe orientation. As a three-year Yosemite Search and Rescue member and climber with 13 El Cap ascents, I’ve learned that this is one of the most invaluable skills for self-rescue. Designed for use with twin, half, and single ropes from 7. The V-shaped grooves ensure optimal grip with minimal force, allowing long falls to be controlled safely. Discover the Edelrid PINCH, the ultimate assisted braking belay device for sport and multi-pitch climbing. Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. Multi Pitch Belay Device. Whether we're tackling steep alpine routes or taking on multi-pitch climbs, the Wall Alpine Belay Device gives us peace of mind in challenging conditions. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Make sure you bring: - Two cordelettes/ long slings - At least six spare screwgates - Two belay devices If the descent from your route involves abseiling, make sure to bring ATC style May 12, 2017 · To operate a belay station on a multi-pitch climb you need at least 3 locking ‘biners but it’s nice to have 4. The PINCH is the first device on the market that can be attached directly to the central ring of the Aug 27, 2025 · What is multi pitch climbing? Multi pitch climbing is a stack of pitches on top of another. However part of me says to get the neox now because learning to single pitch lead climb is what I'm going to be doing for the next 6 months to a year, so what good is a device I could multi pitch with better. The GigaJul is a great device for anyone doing multi-pitch climbing. Jun 27, 2019 · Standard belay plate and tube style devices tend to work well for rappelling and the GigaJul is no exception. Jul 29, 2019 · This skill can save the day when your partner drops their shiny new flavor of the day belay device off the top of the 3rd pitch of a 7 pitch climb or when your ropes are two icy from a dripping ice pillar in below freezing temps and you can’t get them bent through your tube-style device. What makes this innovation so special is that the the PINCH can be directly clipped to the central ring on a harness without a carabiner. Daniel, Head of Innovation at EDELRID, demonstrates how to utilize the PINCH for Description Pinch - a new belaying experience with the PINCH, a new, versatile assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques. Mar 14, 2017 · Improve multi-pitch communication by adjusting your belay position with these simple anchor adjustments. When doing a multi-pitch climb, which is a long climb … The Petzl Reverso is one of our favorite belay devices for multi-pitch climbing. It combines a standard tube-style design with the ability to belay following climbers directly off the anchor on multi-pitch climbs, conveniently “ auto-blocking ” to catch their falls. It’s a little heavier and more expensive than alternatives, but for the assisted braking option and sturdy steel construction, it’s worth the difference. Overall, the device is considered an essential piece of gear that can handle a variety May 8, 2014 · ACMG guide Paul McSorley shows us how to belay on a multi-pitch climb using a "guide style" autoblocking belay device from the top. , ATCs). 7 to 10. 5mm Integrated braking mechanism allows smooth feeding and lowering Innovative locking Jan 16, 2025 · Hi Guys, Newer trad climber (~2yrs) but ~9yrs TR, sport, etc. Use one of these techniques, and have the Grigri Does anyone know the strength of an ATC when used in a multi-pitch set up? It occurred to me that the entire weight of a climber is resting on the strength of the ATC clip and not on any carabiner. Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. Uniquely, the Pinch can be attached directly to the belay loop of your climbing harness (if the belay loop is less than 3/4 inch wide). I will not pretend like I can give you an expert’s opinion…but I do believe it is a nuanced matter without a clear right or wrong. What follows is a basic step-by-step. Apr 27, 2021 · For some climbers, that’s enough to count the GriGri out as a multi-pitch device. This means that any route you have to rappel off of pretty much requires an ATC or equivalent. 5mm V-shaped grooves provide superior grip and control over long falls Allows for belaying two followers simultaneously Lightweight design ideal for long alpine routes Carabiner release system enables unlocking under load Minimalistic construction offers ease of use Belay Devices for Climbing & Mountaineering The belay device has to fit your skills and plans. The ATC-Guide offers smooth handling while you climb with its lightweight and easy-to-use construction. All you need is a pear shaped locking carabiner. Buy a belay device for belaying in multi pitch climbing routes. It does add a few ounces and require throwing an extra ATC on the back of your climbing harness. Dec 12, 2022 · Ever wondered if you have the skills to get yourself out of a sticky situation while multi-pitch climbing? If you haven’t, you should. the second climber). Jul 19, 2025 · Here's what customers have to say The Black Diamond ATC is a versatile and reliable belay device widely used by climbers. While she re-racks, nab her belay device and put her on lead belay off your harness’ belay loop. Once they arrive at the top of the climb, they build an anchor and come off belay. Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. It's durable, works well with thicker ropes, and creates less friction for the belayer in auto-block mode, an attribute that can Description Pinch - a new belaying experience with the PINCH, a new, versatile assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques. A: When climbing at the gym or at single-pitch crags, only the belayer needs a belay device, so climbing partners may share a Grigri or other belay device. ” Mar 16, 2022 · On longer, multi-pitch routes, there are several additional belay skills you’ll need to master. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. It uses a standard tube-style design with an extra clip in point to orient the device perfectly for use in auto-block mode belaying a second off the anchor. Versatile belay device for alpine and multi-pitch climbing Compatible with twin, half, and single ropes ranging from 7. The Edelrid Pinch is an innovative assisted braking belay device designed for single and multi-pitch sport climbing. Made for gym/sport climbing and climb-and-lower cragging, the Mammut Smart 2. I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on the shelf as my belay device. Aug 26, 2021 · Black Diamond gear reviewThere’s a lot of talk out there about the safety and usefulness of belay devices without assisted braking (e. to make sure everything got a fair shake, i took all six of these devices out with me through all possible May 21, 2024 · Simply put, almost everywhere: The Pinch is designed for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques. Furthermore, the design features additional steel Belay Devices And Descenders Petzl offers a wide selection of descenders and innovative belay devices designed for all vertical activities. You’ll need to learn to belay from above if you want to safely bring your buddy on any route with more than one pitch. This is also known as belaying the second (i. Edelrid's PINCH is a new belay device with a locking function for sport climbing, multi-pitch routes, and rope access. Speaking of your brake hand, it's not right-hand dominant like most other assisted belay devices, so left-handed Multi-Pitch Climbing Get all the necessary gear and tech tips for multi-pitch climbing. May 17, 2019 · You're on a hard, multi pitch climb. The next pitch above the belay goes straight up, and you know it's going to be tough for your partner. . AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) instructor Margaret Wheeler explains how to belay directly off the anchor for safety and efficiency. 738380008150 Weight 234g Pinch – a new belaying experience with the PINCH, a new, versatile assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques. I'm looking to purchase my first multi pitch belay device. 5 mm, the Wall Alpine Belay means business. Make sure you bring: - Two cordelettes/ long slings - At least six screwgates - Two belay devices If the descent from your route involves abseiling, make sure to bring ATC style belay devices and prusik cords. Visit http://altusmountainguides May 26, 2022 · This device type is essentially a standard tube device with some added “guide” features. 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! Does anyone here have a recommendation for an alternate multi-pitch belay device or knot? I have started easy trad leading in the last couple of months and one problem I run into on a regular basis is forgetting my ATC guide at the previous belay station. Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC belay device is ubiquitous at gyms and crags. One distinct advantage it has over the Gri-Gri is that it can be used for a double-rope rappel. Multi-pitch climbers will likely purchase a tube style device that has the option for “guide mode. Jul 20, 2013 · To maximize your time on the rock and perfect your multi-pitch transitions, check out our 1-day Multi-Pitch Prep course, which is part of our 3-day Gym to Crag and 5-day Rock Climbing Development Series Level 1 courses. 95) Dec 5, 2024 · A great belay device for light-and-fast climbers and alpinists on hard multi pitch routes Dec 16, 2022 · Belay devices are used in both single-pitch and multi-pitch styles of climbing. It allows easy handling, prevents rope distortion, has an auto-block system and is extremely light, only 65g. Enhance safety and control with innovative features. No matter which belay device you use though, you should never take your brake hand off the rope while belaying. g. Two following climbers can be belayed at once with this device. On long multi-pitches, it's wise to bring the following equipment in addition to everything you would normally take on a single pitch. In this article, we explain how this works and what you need to pay attention to. Knowing some of these techniques can be great for descending multi pitch routes where your partner has a standard tube device and you have a Grigri. If you were to visit your local crag or gym right now to see which belay devices were most commonly hanging Jan 3, 2024 · How to use an ATC belay device The ATC is typically better suited to multi-pitch climbing and alpine environments. The exact technique for rappelling from multi-pitch routes will vary depending on a number of factors, including the gear you have with you, the number of parties in your group, and what belay device you are using. However, it does have drawbacks like Why I carry two ATC-style belay devices on all multi-pitch climbs. Your belay device — that little piece of metal connecting the belayer to the climber — plays a key role in everyone's safety. Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide provides the best value for multi-pitch climbing. It is suitable for a wide variety of rope diameters and is well-suited for belaying two climbers simultaneously from the top of a pitch. Jun 21, 2023 · When lowering in the multi-pitch environment, the belay system must be consciously closed by having the non-load end of the rope tied to the belayer, the anchor, or something else to prevent it from passing through the belay device. In multi-pitch climbing, a “pitch” describes approximately one rope length of distance. The Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC-Guide are industry benchmarks because they are lightweight, versatile for both belaying a leader and a follower, and function as a secure rappel device. Mostly expecting bolted anchors, but some gear anchors. Plus, thanks to Oct 5, 2024 · The Grigri, Grigri + and Neox belay devices from Petzl can be used to secure a person in lead and second climbing on multi-pitch routes. It is praised for its smooth operation, efficient braking, and durable yet lightweight design. The specific design allows the rope to glide smoothly through the device and reduces wear. They function well when used for single pitch climbing and really excel during multi-pitch climbs. I've looked at the black diamond ATC guide, petzl reverso and the DMM pivot (currently been using an ACT XP but wanting the extra attachment point now) I can't see much difference between them in the shop except the pivot which has the pivoting attachment point Knowing how to belay from above is an important skill for a climber. On a multi-pitch, upon finishing their lead, the lead climber needs to bring their second up to their anchor station before they can start on the next pitch. All the basics in one place to help you transition from single-pitch to multi-pitch routes. 11a/ C2 172m Ascent line gets tough as we climbed in wide crack with just one cam device with over 30m and the fall here could have been dangerous. Mar 29, 2019 · If you have a Grigri or similar auto locking belay device, you can still get down a route. May 24, 2020 · Well, multi-pitch noobs of the world, if you can't see by now on this thread why you should just belay with a regular old tube belay device on your multi-pitch adventures, then I can't add anything else to this thread. It’s also very smooth when belaying from above. 0 geometry-assisted belay device adds security over a tube-style device, while remaining lightweight and easy to use. But, you need a few alternative techniques, because your device only works on a single strand of rope. e. In practice, I think the GriGri is often still worth it as a multi-pitch belay device. Trad Climbing Suitable for alpine adventures with twin, half, and single ropes from 7. This means that belayers are much Nov 9, 2023 · 10 steps to your first multi pitch trad climbing adventure including necessary skills, gear, resources, and techniques. How to choose? Jul 5, 2011 · The GriGri is often overlooked as a tool by people who spend a lot of time on multi-pitch terrain or in the mountains, but it is an excellent device for single-pitch climbing. A multi pitch route will follow a formation or series of cracks in the rock up to the top. It allows you to belay your climbing partner, rappel, and use Reverso mode to belay one or two seconds. Most of the devices we have tested offer some way to do so, and we have noted this in the specs table in the chart at the top of this article. The tricky part about rappelling a multi-pitch is navigating long rappels with the gear you have on you. Food and Water If your multi-pitch is likely to take more than a few hours, consider bringing food and water to Sep 23, 2022 · What is Multi-Pitch Climbing? Multi-pitch climbing is where a rope team ascends a large rock wall or mountain with one or more stops at a belay station on their way to the top of the climb. It really shines in multi-pitch situations Feb 12, 2024 · This well-rounded belay device doubles as a rappel device, and its capacity makes it our best bet for multi-pitch climbing. Dec 5, 2024 · The optimal use of this device is on multi-pitch climbs, where you can belay the leader in assisted-braking mode. Caving, mountaineering, multi-pitch, cragging, canyoning, each activity has its device. In addition to working like a normal tube belay device, guide tubes have an additional hole to attach and belay from the anchor rather than just from the belayer’s harness. Jul 6, 2023 · When you ascend a multi-pitch route, you’ll work in tandem with a partner (or partners). Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device Feb 8, 2024 · “Consequently, you ought to be familiar with the anchor belay method which is the basic method for multi-pitch routes. (124 g, MSRP $59. The PETZL Verso ATC is your basic, all-around belay device that is perfect for gym climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and everything in between. May 9, 2024 · Its strength in single pitch climbs, coupled with its reliable braking system and ability to handle a huge range of rope sizes make it the default belay device for just about every climber. The first climber leads the first pitch with their partner belaying them. Aug 27, 2025 · Bread and butter skills that every multi-pitch climber can benefit from! 🧈 Here’s a method to escape the belay with an autoblocking belay device when belaying a climber from above. ” Sep 27, 2025 · Belay Device: The auto-blocking tube-style device is the undisputed standard for multi-pitch climbing. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Here’s a simple way to prevent a potential catastrophe. May 20, 2022 · When the second reaches the belay, tie off the rope’s brake side with an overhand on a bight (clip this off to an anchor point or back it up with a carabiner if you wish). Belay Devices And Descenders Petzl offers a wide selection of descenders and innovative belay devices designed for all vertical activities. Here are two elegant ways to do this. It's the lightest option for this style of device, and if you use skinny ropes, it is likely the best option. Nov 3, 2020 · We've brought you all the best belay device reviews out there, so just sit back & enjoy. However, in multi-pitch climbing both climbing partners need their own belay and/or rappel device. Extra Climbing Gear You’ll need two anchor kits for a multi-pitch route. The PINCH is the first device on the market that can be attached directly to the central ring of the climbing harness. Currently (ignoring the Aug 15, 2025 · Though it only has a single rope channel—unlike the original, multi-pitch-suitable ATC—the ATC-Pilot is a great gym and cragging device. Discover Mammut's selection of belay devices for outdoor sports. puu2kz u2ih ald 4q eai3 gqbli yzwha 8kgwy a2qou 9rdy